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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Travel
Celeste Neill-Duvoisin

European tastes

Swiss cities offer visitors a wide choice of gastronomic experiences, from fine-dining restaurants to casual brasseries famous for hearty Swiss home cooking.

One of the biggest names in Swiss cuisine is Andreas Caminada who, at the age of 31, is the youngest chef to win the Swiss Chef of the Year in 2008 when Gault Millau awarded him 18 points (only two restaurants in the world have the maximum 20). His passion and bold attitude to food often lend him comparisons to the UK's Jamie Oliver and indeed he is such a Swiss household name that Caminada has recently launched his own product range with Swiss department store chain Globus. To really enjoy his creative haute cuisine, though, take a two-hour trip from Zürich to the Graubünden region and his Schauenstein restaurant, which is housed in an old castle converted into a hotel in the Domleschg valley.

On the outskirts of Zürich is Petermann's Kunststuben, often described as the best restaurant in Switzerland (and listed by Forbes as one of the most expensive restaurants in the world). Famous as much for its celebrity guests as its extraordinary culinary experience, the likes of Tina Turner (who lives in Zürich), the Swiss president and the Emperor of Japan have all dined here.

In Zürich itself is another famous restaurant, the Kronenhalle. Here you can dine amid £25m worth of art, including original paintings by Picasso, Miró and Chagall, while sampling some traditional Swiss dishes such as herring in double cream and generous portions of rösti (grated fried potatoes) or Zürich geschnetzeltes (veal strips with mushrooms and a white wine sauce).

Also currently based in Zürich is Françoise Wicki, distinguished by 16 Gault Millau points, from the new school of up-and-coming Swiss chefs. Françoise is overseeing the restaurant of the boutique Hotel Helvetia, a more budget-friendly way to experience innovative Swiss dining. In keeping with the hotel's laid-back style, her menu always features some delicious Swiss classics such as hörnli mit gehacktem (small noodles with minced meat and apple sauce), but with a Mediterranean touch.

In the French-speaking part of Switzerland, the Restaurant de l'Hôtel de Ville in Crissier, is also one of the best restaurants in Switzerland. It's a cab trip west of Lausanne but a must-do if your budget can stretch to it. Awarded three Michelin stars, it's worth the extra effort to experience some fantastic food, service and style, served in the old stone walls of what used to be the town hall.

Chef Philippe Rochat is highly praised by many gastronomy critics and the menu is very influenced by French cuisine including traditional dishes such as frogs' legs and foie gras, as well as modern dishes such as Saint-Jacques Label Rouge scallops from Normandy, frosted with Cristall vodka.

Some great places to eat in Switzerland that won't require a Swiss bank account:

Basel: Acqua Osteria

In the old brick walls of a water plant, Acqua serves up truly authentic Tuscan food. With clever water installations under the floor and chandeliers built from cooking utensils it's a fantastic fusion of Italian restaurant and lounge bar.

Bern: Kornhauskeller

Located in the atmospheric cellars of an 18th century grain store, this one of the most magnificent dining rooms in Switzerland, serving international cuisine in a dramatic candlelit setting.

Bern: Old Tram Depot

The smell of hops and malt rises from the copper brewery set in the middle of the bar, and diners share long wooden tables next to the bustling open kitchens. Here you'll find typical dishes of Swiss fondue and raclette and specialties such as pork escalope with dried apricots.

Geneva: Café du Soleil

Said to be one of the oldest restaurants in the city, and many would argue that it also serves up the best fondue in Switzerland. Cosy, friendly and always busy with locals and a sprinkling of international United Nations workers.

Zürich: La Salle

Glass-encased restaurant set in a regenerated shipbuilding centre. Below an enormous pink Murano glass chandelier diners muse over an adventurous menu that ranges from crisp Swiss dumplings to horse fillet with chutney.

Zürich: Neumarkt

Swiss home cooking and a buzzing atmosphere on warm summer evenings. The restaurant's covered tree-lined garden terrace, set in the middle of the old town, is perfect for some alfresco city-centre dining.

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