Hidden away beneath London’s east end, Kachette is a gem of a venue that on Sunday 15 November was transformed into a pop-up bar and restaurant for an evening to celebrate great British produce.
An aromatic blend of summer barbecuing and autumnal apples welcomed the lucky winners of the cider competition into the original double-arched ticket hall of the former Shoreditch tube station.
A small bar serving Symonds Founder’s Reserve (what else?) was flanked by crates of cider apples straight from the Symonds orchards in Bodenham.
While the guests were busy getting to know each other, chef David Carter and his team were outside preparing a delicious feast. In a hastily erected kitchen – consisting of a coal burning BBQ, a gas-fired burner and a mobile heated cabinet – it was all systems go.
A culmination of hours of preparation that included smoking everything on the menu, from the aged Dexter brisket of beef (15 hours) and thick cut ribs (5-6 hours) to the butter served with the sour bread (also grilled) and the salt sprinkled liberally on all the dishes, it was an operation of military precision carried out in the best humour (no chef histrionics here).
David has a background in fine dining, including stints as a manager at Claridge’s and Roka. In 2013 he launched Smokestak, his barbecue street-food concept – complete with a 4.5-tonne smoker
His business has gone from strength to strength and he is now looking for a permanent residence, but not before six weeks at Winter Wonderland in Hyde Park. If this meal is anything to go by, Christmas revellers are in for a treat.
Preparing street food on a large scale presents its own challenges – keeping everything warm being the main one. But this imposing Barbadian has an admirable determination and the result a resounding success.
The brisket was so tender a knife went through it like butter, and the ribs, glazed with a barbecue and apple glaze were deliciously juicy. The sides included roast garlic potatoes with rosemary, burnt end baked beans and grilled root veg, with thyme and butter, accompanied by grilled sour bread from east London artisan bakery E5 Bakehouse.
Many of the guests were defeated by the sheer amount on their plates, but there were satisfied faces all round. The brisket was a firm favourite followed closely by the beans.
So sated were the guests that it took a little persuasion to get them to move down to the front arch where the band Coco and the Butterfields were about to take to the stage. It didn’t take the 7-strong band long to impress though, with their uplifting take on well-known tunes, and a few of their own, it was the perfect end to a perfect evening.
To cook like Smokestak at home, follow this David Carter recipe for ribs, or follow his instructions to build your own smoker.
