A weekend away without leaving Bangkok, would be to head to the Thon Buri side of the Chao Phraya River. Away from the crazy concrete jungle and into the serene sanctity that is Siri Sala Private Thai Villa.
Though no longer one entire private Thai villa, Siri Sala recently became part of the Small Luxury Hotels Of The World and now functions like a hotel. Yes, you can now book by rooms, rather than the entire villa. Having visited the villa for various private functions, I was dying to stay there and discover all it had to offer. With six suites on offer, a saltwater pool, garden and The Heritage House, it was the perfect getaway from bustling Sukhumvit.
With the MRT Blue Line’s expansion, Siri Sala is a brisk 10-15 minute walk from the station, though if you travel lightweight, a motorsai does perfectly well. Alternatively, you can also hire a private canal boat and arrive in style from the Bangkok side. The walk from the main gate to the inner sanctum is lined with herbs, edible flowers and shrubs. The “aha” moment of having arrived in the open courtyard is not only breathtaking, I was almost swept away by a cool breeze.
Siri Sala is on a quiet canal in Bangkok Noi, and was restored residence from a three-century-old teak house over five years. Most of the five suites are on the first floor, accessed by a lovely broad wooden staircase. The Bangkok Noi suite takes inspiration from the oldest house of the original property. It is so traditional that even the bathroom is home to a “ong” and “khunn" (water jar and bucket) for you to take a shower in the traditional way.
I chose the bridal suite or the Ruen Hor. The room furnishings are all traditional and original, having been refurbished. Insider’s tip: Do look up when lying in bed and not at your phone, as the wood ceiling is painted with beautiful murals using the iconic turquoise colour, which was the original owner’s favourite. The addition of a modern bathroom was a delight, though the roll-top bath was the highlight. Who doesn’t love a good soak before bed?!
You may notice that the room doesn’t have the usual kettle and tea or coffee selections, but that is only because it comes with a 24-hour butler service. Much like being at home, you can ask for tea or coffee any time you like and it will appear.
The entrance to the suite has a day bed, which is shaded for daytime laze sessions filled with breeze, though there is a fan above.
Since there isn’t much to do in the area, you can choose to laze by the saltwater pool, which is extremely refreshing on a hot day.
A stay at Siri Sala is all about life on the river. Having been featured in The White Lotus, you can choose to visit the filming locations or to take a canal boat ride with an historian to get a lay of the land, so to speak. The focus of the tour is following the footsteps of the Chinese immigrants who left their mark on certain parts of the city, especially Chinatown or Yaowarat. The two-hour tour takes a scenic boat ride from the property to Yaowarat, while visiting various landmarks.
Siri Sala has begun a collaboration with Mahjong Palace to host mahjong nights on certain weekends throughout the year. Subhas Kandasam founded Mahjong Palace in New York in 2023, and has been taking the game across the world. Apart from Bangkok and New York, Mahjong Palace is going to Stockholm and London, and of course, in Kandasam’s home city of Singapore.
An evening of mahjong at Siri Sala begins in style with cocktails and small bites in The Heritage House, while Kandasam explains the game to first-timers. The game then moves to the dining room, where the games begin, drinks flow and food keeps being passed around. Should you not want to spend the night, you can also just sign up for mahjong night. However, I should warn you that once you’re in game mode, making your way back to your own bed will be difficult and it is just much easier to walk upstairs to bed.
Walking upstairs to bed also comes with a relaxing surprise. Your invisible butler has left you a small flask filled with a calming chamomile tea, just the thing I needed after a nice, hot soak!
Life on the river begins early and since I’m an early riser, I loved waking up to birdsong and though there are also sounds of long-tail boats whizzing around, they aren’t fast or furious.
Breakfast at Siri Sala is a grand affair with offerings of everything Thai. Begin with hot soy milk, freshly made overnight, and pathongko or the Chinese doughnuts. The main events offer Western and Thai breakfast delights; there is also the Udon Thani breakfast special of “Kai Krata” or fried eggs served in a skillet with minced pork, Chinese sausage and toast.
After breakfast and before checking out, if you’re staying a night, is a masterclass on making your own “yadom”. The popular Thai herbal nasal inhaler is made with a variety of herbs, spices, flowers and essential oils and can be used to relieve dizziness, nausea and even keep you cool in the hot and humid weather.
What better way to get away from it all than at a serene canal-side villa with its restored Thai stilt houses, private chefs, saltwater pool and cultural immersions!
