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Kieran Murray

Elegant Newcastle restaurant offers flavoursome Sunday lunch - but misses mark on two favourites

On a blustery Sunday morning, my girlfriend and I enjoyed a stroll through the Quayside Market and did a bit of shopping before needing to warm up.

We managed to make a last-minute booking at the conveniently nearby Dobson & Parnell. It's a place that's always been on my bucket list to try during my years living in Newcastle so I was intrigued as to what it had to offer.

The restaurant had not long opened before we rocked up with just one other table already seated at this stage. We were warmly welcomed by a waitress who showed us to our table.

READ MORE: Sunday lunch at 'hidden gem' The Blue Bell in Mickley lacked the wow factor

Dobson & Parnell has a classy and vibrant atmosphere - and when you walk in you feel as though you've arrived for a fine dining experience.

It didn't take long at all before we were offered sourdough bread with butter as an appetiser. Without any breakfast, this went down well with the two of us as we mulled over the menu.

Ham hock terrine with pickled blackberries (Kieran Murray)

The set menu has four options for each course with two courses available for £24, with the three coming in at £29. I'd had a sneak peek at the menu before booking so my mind was made up.

I wasn't overly wowed by the options for a starter, but I opted for the ham hock terrine which was salty and smoky flavour and served with tart and aromatic blackberries which accompanied the meat well.

My partner had the spiced butternut squash soup which was served with kale chimichurri and toasted seeds. It had just the right amount of heat and all of the flavours blended together brilliantly. There's also a fear with soup that it can be too filling, but the dish was light with an ample amount and she swiftly finished off the bowl.

Spiced butternut squash soup with kale chimichurri and toasted seeds (Kieran Murray)

The portion sizes surprised me and staff even brought out extra bread, free of charge, which likely came about after they saw us consume it incredibly quickly the first time around. The restaurant began getting busier with a mixture of bookings and walk-ins joining the large dining area, making it a great ambience.

Now, the main event. Options included roast seabass and onion tart, but my heart was already set on the roast sirloin of beef.

Served rare or well done - I opted for the former - it was served with a Yorkshire pudding, roasties, cauliflower cheese, mashed carrot and kale.

Roast sirloin of beef dinner (Kieran Murray)

Now I must admit my eyes were drawn to two things on my plate instantly. Firstly the roasties, which are usually a stablemate in any Sunday lunch. However, I was a disappointed with the firm favourite being pale and not crispy.

I was also searching around trying to find the gravy. Now my northern roots have made me a huge fan of a thick gravy - and plenty of it! I had to ask for a jug of gravy, which a waitress brought over in no time but sadly, for me, it was too thin and watery.

On the other hand the meat was served perfectly pink, tender and melted in your mouth. The cauliflower cheese was a welcome addition, as was the crispy Yorkshire pudding with a beautifully soft centre.

Roast chicken breast dinner (Kieran Murray)

The chicken, my girlfriend said, was filled with flavour and incredibly succulent, with the breast easily tearing apart.

Even when full, my girlfriend's motto is "there's always room for pudding". Although we could feel our jeans tightening, we had both eyed up desserts which were right up our street.

I was easily swayed by the spiced pear frangipane tart served with crème fraiche. The pear was bursting with flavour and the cinnamon accompanied the sweetness of the frangipane superbly.

Spiced pear frangipane tart with creme fraiche (Kieran Murray)

I was also a huge fan of the crème fraiche which complemented the tart by taking an edge off the sweetness as opposed to using cream, as so many other establishments would use.

My partner went for the dark chocolate mousse, served with candied hazelnuts and preserved cherries. Although the portion, at first, looked a little on the small side, the mousse was so rich and creamy - it was a delight to eat.

With a soft drink each and a 10% tip automatically added to the bill, it came to £70.40 - a hefty piece for a Sunday dinner for two people without any alcohol on the table. It's worth noting the staff were outstanding - attentive, polite, accommodating and well worth their tip.

Dark chocolate mousse served with candied hazelnuts and preserved cherries (Kieran Murray)

Dobson & Parnell was a pleasurable experience, but my mind still casts back to the disappointment of those roasties and gravy which were a bit of a let down in what was otherwise an enjoyable meal.

I would be tempted to go back to try their taster menu, but for the price I may have to wait for a special occasion.

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