Every so often, there’s an outburst on Twitter about the language used to describe wine and how it often puts people off. In one recent exchange, words that frequently cropped up as turn-offs were “elegant”, “feminine”, “sexy”, “smooth”, “clean” and “quaffable”, but seeing as some of those are often used on back labels, it’s clear that not everyone is on board.
If you’re relatively new to wine, it is actually quite helpful to know what to expect from a bottle, which is why some retailers flag this up in the name, though mainly at the cheaper end of the price spectrum. I decided to try some out and was prepared, I admit, to be a bit sniffy about them, given that they’re all non-vintage, but they actually did what they said on the tin – or, rather, bottle.
The choice of words is interesting, too. What may attract one consumer – “soft”, say – may not to appeal to another (to me, for instance, that sounds a bit Andrex). And when you stop to think about it, the terminology can still be rather imprecise. “Fruity” is so vague as to be not that helpful at all, really. What kind of fruit are we talking about? Apples? Blackcurrants? Raspberries? Similarly, what kind of flowers does “floral” evoke? And “aromatic” in what way? Does it smell of ylang ylang or woodsmoke? It’s clearly less a question of giving information than of generating a feelgood factor about what’s in the bottle.
All that said, however, I rather like Spar’s choice of “bold” on its Bold Red (£5.29, 13%), even though it’s not a word I’ve ever heard in a conversation about wine. Has anyone ever said to you, “I bought this really bold wine the other day”? The “gutsy” on the back label seems to me to describe it better, not least because it is, though I marginally prefer the same store’s “smooth” red in this week’s recommendations. And I’m surprised that no one seems to use the word “lush”, maybe due to its ambiguity. “Mellow” obviously resonates, too.
The vast majority of wines don’t carry this sort of information in their name, of course, so it’s a question of scanning the back label for clues, although the suggestion on today’s zweigelt that it’s “a lively Viennese waltz that will sweep you off your feet” doesn’t tell you much about what the wine is going to taste like, other than that it’s likely to be fun. Then again, that’s probably all you need to know (it does taste of cherries, though).
Four bottles that do what they say on the label
Waitrose Crisp and Floral Italian Dry White £4.99, 12%. If you’re looking for something with a bit more pizazz than pinot grigio, but isn’t a million miles away from it in style, this refreshing, dry white from Trevenezie fits the bill. Perfect for a carbonara.
Spar Smooth Red £5.29, 13%. Also described as “easy & juicy”, which it totally is. A hugely drinkable, Spanish red to enjoy with anything from bangers to tapas.
The Dot Austrian Cherry Zweigelt £11.99 Cheers, 13%. An exuberant, young, beaujolais-like red that’s brimming with bright cherry fruit. Chill, and drink with cold meats.
Waitrose Soft and Juicy Chilean Red £4.99, 12.5%. The word “soft” doesn’t generally rock my boat, but this is lusciously ripe and velvety. One to drink on its own with maybe a nibble of cheese – brie and a baguette would do nicely.
• For more by Fiona Beckett, go to matchingfoodandwine.com
