Given the recent blazing summer weather and the fact that we couldn’t go to the pub, it is hardly surprising that rosé sales have rocketed in the UK, but even the supermarkets are astonished by the figures. “It’s gone completely bonkers,” says Becky Hull, the rosé wine buyer at Waitrose, whose sales are up 54% so far this year, with figures for the recent bank holiday week even outstripping prosecco. “There’s an element of escapism about rosé that I think we all need at the moment.”
Perhaps the surprise is more that a lot of rosé – especially the fashionably pale Provençal style – isn’t cheap. The average spend at Waitrose is £8.16 a bottle, more than for other still wines. So what can you get for under that?
I had to plough through a fair number to kiss my prince, but there are some good buys under £8, and not just those on promotion. True, Provence is a struggle but the rest of southern France can even deliver under £7, as can neighbouring Spain and, occasionally, Italy.
The downside for lovers of the pale and dry style is that cheaper rosés tend to be sweeter. If you’re scouring the shelves for a bargain, check the alcohol. If it’s under 12% that generally means it will be off-dry. And any cheap rosé is improved by chilling it well.
Eight rosés under £8
Pedro Luis Monastrell Rosé 2019
£5.99, Aldi 12.5%
This peach-coloured Spanish rosé is, surprisingly, also peachy flavoured – almost as if it did have peaches or nectarines in it. Soft, rounded and voluptuous, the wine to sip on a warm afternoon or drink with a fat squidgy burrata.
Proudly Vegan Rosé 2018, Central Valley Chile
£7.29, Ocado 12%
Ignoring the slightly irritating “proudly vegan” labelling, given a lot of wines are suitable for vegans nowadays, this is a satisfyingly characterful rosé. Frutti without being tutti. Brownie points too for some interesting pairings, including fried okra with spices, quinoa salad, and tomato and olive crostini. And, er, vegan in case you hadn’t got the message.
La Dame en Rose 2018, Terres du Midi
£6.50, Marks & Spencer 12.5%
The name and slightly girly-looking bottle may put off the brosé brigade (that is, men who drink rosé) but this is a convincing Provence drinkalike – pale, crisp and attractively citrusy. Have a glass with some prawns or smoked salmon.
Incarnade Pinot Noir Rosé 2019, Pays d’Oc
£7, Co-op 11.5%
Pinot noir is an unusual grape for the Languedoc and, at only 11.5% this doesn’t pack much of a punch but it is pretty (in taste and appearance), with a beguiling touch of strawberry sweetness. And it looks more expensive than it is, which is always a win. Try it with sushi.
Domaine Félines Jourdan Les Fruités 2019 Pays d’Hérault
£6.95, The Wine Society 12.5%
Fruité is the right word for this deep-coloured rosé, which is full of redcurrant and raspberry flavours. Despite the modest alcohol, it is quite gutsy and more of a barbecue than a picnic wine. And proof, at this price, that the Wine Society can and does compete with the supermarkets.
Le Rosé de Balthazar Syrah Grenache 2019 Pays d’Oc
£7.99, Waitrose 12.5%
With its cute, curvy bottle, this rosé really stands out for its looks. (Sales have tripled since the move to the new packaging.) Satisfyingly savoury and a bit more punchy than a Provence rosé. It looks a lot more expensive than it is, but possibly wait until Waitrose has one of its 25% off deals for an even better bargain.
Mezquiriz Rosado 2018 Navarra
£3.99/£4.88 (£4.88 Scotland and Wales), Lidl 12%
Very dark and intensely fruity, this Spanish rosé is extraordinary for the price. It is quite strong too (despite the 12% ABV), so a good bottle for a barbecue or, as they somewhat randomly suggest, a tandoori halloumi wrap. So maybe one for your next Indian takeaway.
Bardolino Chiaretto 2019, Pasqua
£7.99, (as part of a “Mix Six” deal), Majestic 12%
You have to go for the mix-six deal to get this Italian rosé for under £8 but you would be mad to buy from Majestic on any other basis. A delicate, pale rosé with a fresh lemony bite that would be perfect with a plate of linguine and prawns with a fresh tomato sauce.
