At this time of year, there’s one thing you need to beat the heat - cologne. It’s the very lightest sort of scent: evanescent and refreshing, and you drench yourself with it.
In habitually hot places like Spain and Italy, you can get the stuff cheap in supermarkets, in big bottles. It’s called Cologne after the city where an Italian, Giovanni Maria Farina, produced the first cologne in 1709. He wrote to his brother: "I have found a fragrance that reminds me of an Italian spring morning, of mountain daffodils and orange blossoms after the rain".
He named it Eau de Cologne, in honour of the city. And that freshness is what cologne is about. Farina’s fragrance was followed later in Cologne by the herbally 4711 Original .
There are lots of attractive variants out there; just don’t expect them to last as long as other fragrance types. And bear in mind that this is the original unisex scent ... most colognes of a citrussy or herbal sort are for both sexes.
Santa Maria Novella Acqua della Regina
Acqua della Regina has quite the history, being made by Renato Bianco for Catherine de Medici for her marriage to Henri II of France in 1533 . It is said to be the first fragrance to use alcohol as a base, to give the scent longer life. It’s a delicious mix of Italian citrus, petitgrain, neroli and lavender. An elegant royal treat. (£125 for 100ml, uk.smnovella.com)
Christian Dior Eau Sauvage
This was Dior’s first scent for men, created by the legendary Edmond Roudnitska in 1966. It was named after Percy Savage, the Australian bon vivant who arrived late at Dior’s party and was greeted by cries of Oh Savage! Or else the butler simply announced him. Either way, Dior thought it rather a good name for his new scent. It has the characteristic citrus (lemon, bergamot) and herbal (rosemary and basil) notes of cologne, plus a floral element (carnation, rose) and soft orris root and amber, and lots besides. It’s a classic for a reason. (£104 for 100ml, dior.com)
Frederic Malle, Cologne Indelebile
This is one of the most irresistible summer scents, the creation of that fine perfumer, Dominique Ropion. It’s got the traditional herbal and citrus elements - Lemon, bergamot, rosemary and orange blossom - that make for the characteristic uplift of cologne, but it’s grounded in a whopping base of white musk and narcissus, which gives it a deliciously sensuous aspect. So, since you’re asking, this isn’t strictly a cologne but an eau de parfum. But it’s got cologne in the name, ok? ( £175 for 50ml, fredericmalle.co.uk)
Jo Malone London, Wood Sage and Sea Salt Cologne
Maybe it’s the name, but this conjures up the outdoors. It combines the earthy woodiness of sage with an almost marine freshness. It’s different from most colognes, not having the citrus element, but it’s light and uplifting and has become something of a classic. (£122 for 100ml jomalonelondon.co.uk)
Chanel Les Exclusifs de CHANEL Eau de Cologne
This is expensive but utterly delicious, being a citrussy medley of mandarin and bergamot with a subtle floral uplift of neroli. It makes you think summer, even when it’s not summer. There was quite the tussle over this chez McDonagh with my husband claiming that it was one for the boys, on account of the citrus. Whatever; it’s the classiest of colognes from the classiest of houses. (£205 for 75ml, chanel.com)
Acqua di Parma Colonia
The original cologne from Parma has given rise to a whole family of fragrances but the oldest remains the freshest and cleanest of all. It’s got a medley of citrus fruit, which is the first thing to hit you - sweet orange, bitter orange, bergamot and lemon - plus Bulgarian rose, verbena and English lavender, with a base that includes soft oakmoss and sandalwood. The original presentation is classic too- the Bakelite cap, the clean glass cylinder bottle and the unmissable mustard-yellow box. It’s hard to imagine anyone not liking this, especially in the heat. (£108 for 100ml, acquadiparma.com)
4711 Original Eau de Cologne Original
One of the oldest eau de cologne of all, 4711, named after its address on the Glockengasse in Cologne, was formulated in 1799, and is available pretty well everywhere in its lovely old-fashioned bottle; the classic, herbally uplifting formula which is literally described as “water”. If you’re feeling extravagant sprinkle it in the bath and drink in the aroma. It’s inexpensive and it’s the real deal. (£37 for 200ml, johnbellcroydon.co.uk)
Diptyque L’Eau des Hespérides
All right, this is a cheat, being an eau de toilette, but it was impossible to resist, having all the fresh uplift of a cologne and a divine name. The citrus freshness is from bitter orange and lemon, but with the unusual addition of peppermint and curry plant. A friend described it as “summer in a bottle”, which pretty well sums it up. (£135 for 100ml, diptyqueparis.com)
