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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK

East of Eden: A Californian paradise

Starring James Dean in his first major screen role, East of Eden brings to life the novel of the same name by Nobel prize-winner John Steinbeck. Roughly based on Steinbeck's own childhood, it tells the story of Cal Trask, a wayward young man who feels he must compete with his brother Aron for the love of their father, the stern and distant Adam.

Set during the first world war, the 1955 film portrays a stunning central Californian landscape of pristine coastline, lush farmland and grand Victorian-era architecture. Fortunately, the intervening century has done nothing to dilute the beauty and old-world charm of this enchanting part of the state.

East of Eden opens in seaside Monterey, described in the credits as a "rough and tumble fishing port". Don't let that deter you: these days Monterey is a dynamic regional hub, boasting a quaint downtown, vibrant arts scene and bustling harbour. The city is also home to the Monterey Bay Aquarium, renowned for exhibits such as the 10-metre-high tank that allows visitors a close-up view of California's diverse marine life. Or, take to the water for a cruise around the Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary.

Salinas is the other town featured in the film, as the sleepy and genteel farming community that is home to the Trasks. Separated from the coast by the brooding Santa Lucia mountains (visible in the film when Cal hitches a ride on a freight train), Salinas's identity has always been intertwined with the fertile fields surrounding it.

Remember how the boys' father Adam tries to make his fortune shipping lettuce? Today Salinas is still called the "salad bowl of the United States", thanks to the fact that 80% of the country's lettuce is grown here. The city itself is full of attractions, too, like its renovated historic downtown, neighbourhoods of fine Victorian-era houses, and the National Steinbeck Center, a museum and memorial devoted to Salinas's most famous son.

However, most of the filming for East of Eden took place 250 miles north of Salinas, in the quiet village of Mendocino. Located on a windswept headland jutting out into the Pacific, this former mill town is an artists' colony and weekend retreat for city-dwellers who come to bask in the area's rugged beauty and friendly vibe.

The surrounding Mendocino County is worth exploring too: a major wine-producing region with 16,000 acres of grapes and 40 boutique wineries, most of which welcome visitors, it's a great place to taste some of California's finest drops. And you'll want to spend time admiring the redwood forests, meandering rivers, and a coastline so untouched you can imagine you've stepped back in time to the days of Cal, Aron and Steinbeck.   

Watch East of Eden on Sky Movies Modern Greats on 23 January at 8pm.

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