I grew up celebrating Thanksgiving in the US and I’ve had the privilege of celebrating it with Americans and non-Americans in France and England for most of my adult life. Experience has taught me that the only thing that really matters on Thanksgiving is being together with others while you eat and drink like a grizzly bear preparing for a long cycle of hibernation. The most enduring symbol of Thanksgiving is the cornucopia or “horn of plenty”. This is not the moment for rules or self-restriction!
Most people consider Thanksgiving to be the quintessential American holiday. Others consider it to be nothing more than America’s most important creation myth, the story of a whitewashed harmony between the coloniser and the colonised. Although still an area of scholarly and religious debate, the vast majority of Americans were taught that the first Thanksgiving occurred in 1621 in Plymouth, Massachusetts, following a particularly bountiful harvest. The traditional narrative revolves around pilgrims being thankful to have survived the crossing of the Atlantic and to have found religious freedom in a new land. In a world where slavery and colonisation were rampant, many of the actual details were most definitely glossed over (to say the least) but the traditional story told to most American children up until recently was that pilgrims and Native Americans broke bread together on this important occasion to celebrate their new friendship.
Four centuries later, nearly every American celebrates Thanksgiving in some way, regardless of religion or socio-economic class. Although many families do take a moment to say thanks to a higher power and to each other, there are no church services of any kind. Gifts are not purchased or exchanged. For most Americans, the day is defined by sharing a delicious meal at a very large table. It is usually “potluck” – meaning that each person who is invited brings a dish or a bottle to add to the celebration.
Believe it or not, turkey isn’t always involved. You might find lamb tagine sitting next to marshmallow-covered yams or you might find arroz con pollo sharing the limelight with chicken and waffles. Some families can’t imagine Thanksgiving without cornbread, whereas others wouldn’t dream of it without lasagne. Much like snowflakes, no single Thanksgiving table will ever be exactly the same – and that’s a good thing.
There aren’t any rules, and there shouldn’t be any rules for the drinks, either. It’s fair to say that the “classics” for most people are beaujolais (because beaujolais nouveau is released on the third Thursday of November and Thanksgiving is the Thursday after) and riesling (due to German influences on American Protestantism). But this is not a day to feel constrained; if you have a special bottle you’d like to open, do so. If you want to bring a bottle you know nothing about, go for it.
In many homes, sides are drawn after dessert is served, but drinks will still be required regardless of which camp you choose. Those who care about football will head off to the family room to watch the Philadelphia Eagles battle the Dallas Cowboys and drink beer until the excitement and alcohol renders them comatose. Those who are more interested in catching up with friends and family (and gossip) will remain in the kitchen together, washing up, catching up and sharing a bottle of bourbon. Most people will move between realms multiple times. Be prepared for anything.
Take pleasure in each other. Food and drink aren’t what’s important – they are there to support the gathering. What’s important is being together, cooking together and sharing together. Mix together your old and new friends. Invite strangers and people who live alone to join your table. Share cultures and ideas. Share different dishes. Share different drinks. Be thankful for being alive and for being together. And leave the rulebooks to the referees on the football field.
Josephshofer Riesling Spätlese, Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt, Mosel, Germany, £14.95, thewinesociety.com
A British friend described this riesling as “the apple sauce for my roast pork”. It’s also fantastic with turkey.
Miss Vicky Wine Beaujolais Nouveau 2014, £9.99, smilinggrape.com
Even though it’s much maligned and often undrinkable, it can still be delicious, like this one.
Corison Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, £59.95, robersonwine.com
Cathy Corison is one of the best winemakers working in America today and this wine is a glorious testament to the magic of the Napa Valley.
Anchor IPA, San Francisco, £2.39, beersofeurope.co.uk/anchor-ipa
A San Francisco classic, equally perfect for cheering on your team or lounging on the couch.
Woodford Reserve Kentucky Bourbon, £23.50, waitrose.com
Kentucky Bourbon is as American as apple pie and this one is rich and savoury.
Christian Holthausen is an Franco-American wine specialist living in London. Twitter: @bosiechampagne
