Early July is the traditional time for writing about wines to go with barbecues, even if many of us first lit those coals back in May or June. The general assumption is that they’re going to be big, beefy reds (and before anyone points out I’ve done much the same in the past, it’s What Is Expected, and one does one’s best to oblige). But the thought occurs to me that many people enjoy a cold lager with a barbie, so why shouldn’t the wine we drink be refreshing, too?
Barbecue is also a good deal more sophisticated than it used to be, and no longer simply a question of bangers and burgers: it might be US-style barbecue with its subtle, smoky flavours, or fish, or veg; at its most basic, it can just mean cooking over coal rather than under the grill.
So why not a light white? That could, of course, be a crowd-pleasing sauvignon, but how about a spritzy vinho verde, which is typically only 11-12% abv? Quinta de Azevedo Vinho Verde (11% abv) is always a reliable buy: Waitrose has the 2014 and 2015 on offer at £6.19 (Majestic has the 2014 for £6.99 on its mix-six deal), while the Wine Society has the 2015 for £6.95.
Personally, though, I’m partial to rosé with a barbie: not the baby-pink ones that are currently fashionable, but a darker, fuller-bodied style. The Spanish tend to drink them that way as a matter of course, so try Sainsbury’s powerful, savoury Taste the Difference Viñedos Barrihuelo Rioja Rosado 2015 (£8; 13.5% abv), which would be perfect barbecue fare if your sausages are spicy; it would be equally good with a paella.
Even reds don’t have to be belters. The Wine Society, again, has some cracking examples for well under £10, though some don’t come in for a few weeks (remind me to tell you about them when they do), but in the meantime Pepp Blauer Zweigelt (£7.25; 12.5% abv), from Austria, is perfect for a warm summer’s evening and, even though it’s from the 2013 vintage, it’s still bright and bouncy. The same goes for the quaffable, juicy Morandé One to One Reserva Pais 2015 (£6.99 on Majestic’s mix-six deal; 13.5% abv), from Chile.
I also like cocktails with barbecued food. Marks & Spencer has some great products in its new summer range. One of them, Coconut and Banana Liqueur (on offer at £8, down from £10, until 1 August, 35cl; 20% abv) sounds a bit tacky, true, but it’s very tasty, like supercharged, banana-spiked, coconut water. I also love the new Plantation Pineapple Stiggins Fancy Rum (£33 Marks & Spencer, £34.50 Gerry’s in Soho; 40% abv, 3), which, as the name suggests, is infused with fresh pineapple. That would make an awesome daiquiri.
