Jan. 08--Every January, the shelves in the grocery store once abundant with eggnog go conspicuously dark, the sign for "2 for $5!" cartons taken down, likely replaced by a deal on green juice and promises of a new you. But what if you want the old, eggnog-drinking you?
"I can make my own eggnog," you think. Or: You can let chef Michael Taus make it for you, and spike it, and serve it to you in front of a fireplace.
Guess which road I traveled?
To make the Boyce Eggnog ($10) at Taus Authentic in Wicker Park, bartenders mix housemade eggnog with a triple dose of alcohol. To start: Torres 5-year brandy and Goldschlager, which, when not consumed alone in a dorm room, actually provides a pleasant cinnamon flavor. (Sadly, or maybe not, the drink is so thick you can't see the gold flakes.) A sprinkle of fresh nutmeg on top adds a warm, wintry aroma. But it's the third spirit that takes the drink from good to "give me three": allspice dram.
If you don't know the magic of allspice dram, tell you what. Scrap whatever New Year's resolution you already haven't kept and resolve to walk to a liquor store and get a bottle. (Walking: That's good for you!) What is it? The basic description is rum flavored with allspice berries, but that's also tricky, because these "berries" aren't what you're picturing. They're brown, unripened and hard, like little wrinkly hazelnuts. Once crushed and infused in the rum with a little water and sugar, they make a spicy, strong, unmatchable liqueur that's the perfect counterpoint to anything sweet. Picture pineapple on one end of a see-saw and allspice dram on the other -- that seesaw's staying perfectly level.
I'm sure Taus' eggnog alone is far better than what I'd find at the supermarket; homemade always is, since it gets its thickness from real eggs and not chemically sounding cost-effective thickeners like guar gum. But when you taste that rich, spicy depth -- that's the allspice dram. Be careful with this one: It's served with a straw, and I guarantee you won't realize how quickly you're sucking it down.
Taus Authentic, 1846 W. Division St., 312-561-4500, www.tausauthentic.com.
mconrad@tribpub.com
