Sept. 21--At Frontier, the pioneer-inspired West Town hot spot where urbane eats and drinks are served in a rustic, communal-dining milieu, the craft cocktails are a triumph of understated chic. Some of the newer cocktails are more elaborate -- The Yellow Hammer incorporates pineapple-infused George Dickel Rye and Rare Tea Cellar rooibos tea-infused rum, while The Mountain Laurel mixes Laird's Apple Brandy with cabernet sauvignon. But all of the drinks on Frontier's list exude an unaffected, old-world charm, especially when it comes to the boozy house staples.
One such charmer is Frontier's signature Raspberry Gin Buck ($10), a tall, brisk and blush-hued cocktail that also can be ordered as a punch ($55, serves parties up to six). The fixings of Hendrick's Gin, raspberry-basil syrup, fresh lime and ginger beer are simple on their own, but in combination provide a vast breadth of sensations -- effervescent, tart, zesty, savory and sweet, with touches of ginger spice and aromatic herb -- that register this libation as more than just pretty in pink.
And if the lime and ginger beer elements sound familiar, it's because this fruit and herb-infused sipper is a spin on the vodka buck, better known as the Moscow mule.
"I've always liked the combo of basil, raspberry and gin," said Sean Nielson, lead mixologist at Frontier. "The floral and vegetal qualities of Hendrick's Gin are a natural pairing with fresh fruit and basil."
There is something to be said for a light, simple and straightforward cocktail that also offers a serenade for the senses, and this buck certainly fits the bill. 1072 N. Milwaukee Ave., 773-772-4322, www.thefrontierchicago.com.
Pickett is a freelance writer.
