The most noticeable trend in the autumn round of supermarket tastings was nothing to do with wine, or even craft beer (for once), but the number of upmarket spirits and liqueurs they were showing. Which is odd when you think how everyone seems to be looking for half-price deals on champagne and other wines, yet is apparently prepared to splash out on premium spirits.
Partly, of course, it’s because bottles make good gifts for the lazy and/or desperate (*holds my hand up*), but I think it’s also because many people still feel tentative about wine, so don’t want to pay too much for it. Spirits and liqueurs, on the other hand, are more fun, more glamorous – and easier to understand.
The big flavour in for spirits this year seems to be salted caramel, which gives a new sophisticated twist to cream liqueurs, and I must confess I’m not immune to its temptations myself. I doubt if Tesco’s Salted Caramel Cream Liqueur (£12; 17% abv) would even get to the wrapping stage, because I’ve convinced myself I should keep a bottle in the fridge, “just in case”.
Marks & Spencer has also gone into indulgent overdrive on its liqueurs range, introducing a Spiced Apple Pie Martini Cocktail (on offer at £10 for 50cl; 18% abv) and a Christmas Cake Liqueur (£10 for 35cl; 21% abv), which really does taste like fruitcake – so much so that I’m planning to pour it over vanilla ice-cream. Both are made in France by Gabriel Boudier, a firm that seems to have the knack of making liqueurs (of whatever offbeat flavour) taste natural. They also make Tesco’s utterly delicious Finest Sloe Gin (£15 for a full-size bottle; 21% abv).
Although the gin craze continues unabated, I’d rather have a dark spirit at this time of year. Waitrose has obviously set its sights on the whisky geek market with its eclectic range of international whiskies, including a deliciously fruity Taiwanese single malt called Kavalan (£40 in selected branches – a good price, because it’s over £50 in specialist shops; 40% abv), while Aldi has a 1973 Ducastaing Armagnac (40% abv) at £24.99 a 50cl bottle, which would make a great present, so long as it doesn’t all get snapped up sharpish; if it is, Aldi’s Five-Year-Old Calvados (£17.99; 40% abv) is also very decent indeed.
But for the ultimate show-stopper, you can’t beat the Veritable Poire Prisonière Poire William (£33, Marks & Spencer; 40% abv), which has a whole pear in the bottle and is totally delicious. Serve it chilled with roquefort rather than stilton for a cheese course with a twist.
• For more gift bottles, check out Fiona’s website.