Nov. 16--If there's an heir apparent to Charlie Trotter, might that person be Rick Bayless? What I mean is a chef figurehead whose underlings went on to become stars on their own. Paul Kahan came from Bayless' kitchen. Anselmo Ramirez, a longtime line cook at Frontera Grill and Topolobampo, is making waves at his Albany Park restaurant, Ixcateco Grill.
On Tuesday, we'll see Bayless' longtime right-hand man and his pastry chef strike out on their own. Brian Enyart and Jennifer Jones (husband and wife) will open Dos Urban Cantina in Logan Square, at 2829 W. Armitage Ave.
Enyart's menu is divided into four categories: vegetables (grilled mushrooms with red Oaxacan mole and chestnut shortbread), masa (elotes with hominy and masa pudding), seafood (sea urchin, tomatillo and green apple salsa, chicharron crema) and meat (goat albondigas with black mole). Upon first read, the dishes exhibit the type of fine-dining ambition that's earned Topolobampo a Michelin star.
Jones has always impressed us with her pastry and baking acumen, employing Mexican ingredients rarely used by other chefs with classic French training. Among the more intriguing desserts we spy: plantains with cajeta and queso fresco (savory?), piloncillo sugar pie (piloncillo is a Mexican cane syrup) with malted whipped cream, and something simply called: "The Best Chocolate Cake. Ever."
We'll see about that.
kpang@tribpub.com
Twitter @pang
