Stephen Buranyi’s remarkably complete, perceptive and well-researched article on natural wines (Has wine gone bad?, Journal, 15 May) does itself a disservice by starting with a few sensationalistic remarks about strange-tasting ones. In reality, a distinguishing – and attractive – trait of natural wine is the wider range of results, precisely because producers express their experience, talent and vision rather than following the strict winemaking process of “technical” wines. This does indeed yield some wines that are less accessible or even objectively worse. The intelligent response is to not drink the ones you don’t like, and instead to enjoy the many successful natural wines, which are, from my perspective, delicious and superior to their non-natural counterparts.
Jonathan von Zelowitz
Paris, France
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