I’m surprised Good Housekeeping seems to judge things purely on price these days. Despite deciding that Morrisons had the better prosecco in the under £10 category – which will almost certainly be discounted at some point in the run-up to Christmas – they decide to highlight the cheaper Lidl version. Are they just chasing headlines?
The Allini prosecco is admittedly not at all bad for £5.25. Like most proseccos it’s sweeter than champagne, despite bearing the description “extra dry” on the label. It’s not unpleasantly chemical-tasting. It would actually be rather nice with panettone or cream cakes and there’s no harm in that. But as an aperitif it’s far too sweet, for my palate at least.
Morrison’s prosecco spumante on the other hand isn’t totally dry, but it is well balanced and refreshing – a good party drink – and at £8.29 quite a bit cheaper than rivals such as Sainsbury’s Taste the Difference prosecco, retailing at £10. It’s by no means overpriced.
That doesn’t mean I don’t rate the discounters. Lidl for example has just introduced one of their regular tranches of “when it’s gone, it’s gone” wines, which contains some absolutely cracking bargains. If it’s fizz you’re after, the half bottles of Bissinger champagne (£6.99) are terrific, or if you’ve a sweeter tooth, the fragrant, grapey Clairette de Die from the Rhône (also £6.99) is lovely.
If you like to plan ahead and are stocking up for Christmas, there’s a decent bottle of 2014 Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux from Château Roque le Mayne for £8.99; a posh-looking Gigondas from Puech Morny for £9.99 that would make a more than acceptable substitute for Châteauneuf du Pape; and a really pretty, light, fruity Mâcon Igé from Domaine de la Bruyère in Burgundy for just £6.99 that would be great with the Boxing Day leftovers.
Just don’t get over-excited about the prosecco.
Fiona Beckett is the Guardian’s wine writer.
