If talk of the Cayman Islands conjures up images of a tax haven, then perhaps it's time for a reassessment. A haven, yes, but think wildlife rather than fiscal and you're far more likely to strike gold.
Nature has a habit of hiding its rarest creatures, but not on Grand Cayman. For here, in Queen Elizabeth II Botanic Park, coming face to face with the endangered Grand Cayman blue iguana is a regular occurrence. Not unlike the tourists who seek them out, these reptiles emerge during the day in search of the sun's rays and alfresco dining – albeit on plants and berries. With their unmistakable colouring, they are a photographers' dream.
Not to be outdone, the sister islands – Little Cayman and Cayman Brac – have their own "specials". On Little Cayman this comes in the form of the monochrome Lesser Cayman Islands iguana, while Cayman Brac is home to a subspecies of the Cuban Amazon parrot – the rarest in the Caribbean, and entirely distinct from its bigger, brasher cousin on Grand Cayman. But for bird lovers, perhaps the best spectacle is to be found at Little Cayman's Booby Pond. At this nature reserve, more than 5,000 pairs of red-footed boobies roost in the trees, heading out to sea each morning in search of fish, only to be divebombed on their return by a battalion of magnificent frigatebirds intent on raiding their catch.
When the first European sailors came across the islands, they too were attracted by the wildlife – but the object of their attention was the green sea turtle, a prized source of protein after weeks at sea. Today wild sea turtles are endangered worldwide. Although they still nest on the more secluded of Cayman's beaches, and are regularly spotted by divers, the easiest place to see them is at the Cayman Turtle Farm in West Bay, Grand Cayman, where visitors can observe or even swim with the hatchlings.
For another watery attraction, check out Grand Cayman's Stingray City. Here the supremely graceful southern stingray has, over the years, become habituated to humans by the surplus bait tossed overboard by fishermen. Today, in one of the world's most enchanting wildlife encounters, both snorkellers and divers can see these huge but gentle creatures gliding in search of a handful of squid.
The Cayman Islands are close to the centre of the tropical western Atlantic biogeographic region and so boast a rich and diverse marine life. What's more, the fish are so used to having divers peacefully observe their habitat that they are not nervous around humans.
Among the reefs just offshore divers and snorkellers can view a range of fish including silversides, French angelfish, barracuda and tarpon, while more experienced divers who drop off some of the shallower dive sites will be confronted with the spectacular coral walls which surround all three islands. These deeper dives give the opportunity to discover nature at its most beautiful – here you can marvel at the large orange elephant ear sponges and spot green sea turtles, giant grouper and spotted eagle rays.
Back on land there are smaller attractions, too. If you'd be hard pushed to spot the endemic pygmy blue butterfly without expert guidance, the banana orchid is a much easier find. Proclaimed the islands' national flower, it puts on its exquisite display in June and July, and is relatively common in the botanic park – where, earlier in the year, other species such as the rare ghost orchid come into flower. And talking of ghosts, or "duppies", there is also the duppy bush, named for its ghost-like appearance on moonlit nights.
Of course, it's not all about the rarities – there's always something unexpected only a little off the beaten track. Hike along Grand Cayman's rugged Mastic Trail with an expert guide in search of soldier crabs, Cuban tree frogs, woodland birds and the mastic tree, distinctive for its peeling bark.
Watch out for wading birds on brackish ponds throughout the islands, or the cheeky bananaquit (nicknamed the sugarbird) as you settle down for a picnic. Check out the caves of Cayman Brac for bats. Or, perhaps best of all, follow the lighthouse trail up to the bluff: a desolate, windswept spot dotted with century plants, and a cliffside nesting spot for the brown booby.
