Last season Disaya Sorakraikitikul drew inspiration from Adrian Tinniswood's The Long Weekend: Life In The English Country House Between The Wars for ready-to-wear, with names taken from country estates such as Blenheim Palace and Danesfield House.
Creative director Disaya Sorakraikitikul. Disaya
An alumnus of Central Saint Martins College of Fashion and Design in London, Disaya founded her eponymous label in 2005 after the successful launch of a lingerie line. Now, the creative director turns to Spain and Mexico for DISAYA's spring-summer 2019 collection.
Her new collection reimagines the Sacred Heart -- one of the most recognisable Catholic symbols -- as a key motif. The Sacred Heart is commonly depicted in Mexican folk art and handicrafts. The religious symbolism of the heart in Mexico even predates Christianity, going back to the Aztecs, when pulling out a beating heart was a part of ritual human sacrifice to worship the Sun.
The Sacred Heart represents Jesus Christ's self-sacrifice and divine love for humanity and is typically depicted encircled with a crown of thorns and surrounded by flames. Variations include a cross, wings or a spear piercing the heart.
Disaya's interpretations range from small sequin hearts to a striking embroidered Sacred Heart on the back of a pink satin jacket.
"We have incorporated the heart through various techniques, including digitally-printed hand-drawing, 3D embroidery and crochet patches," she explained. "These are our signature techniques employed in previous collections, now used to portray the Sacred Heart, a powerful symbol with great meaning."
Elsewhere, heart-shaped trimmings embellish a white lace and satin dress, while "Big Hearts" stand out on the front and back of a white chiffon shirt.
"It's a shape that people of all ages and genders can use to reflect their feelings of warmth and love," she said. "So it's at the heart of our high-spirited spring and summer 2019 collection."
Besides the hearts, Otomi patterns and floral prints typically seen on holy cards also appear on DISAYA's summery apparel.
The Spanish influence can also be seen in asymmetric designs with multiple layers and ruffles, recalling the silhouette of the flamenco dress. Rooted in Andalusian culture, the flamenco dance is a passionate art form that is echoed in the Thai fashion house's seductive clothing.
