Mindful that foodies who gad about town by train might need extra motivation to press-on from the nearest station to discover the delights of Latest Recipe, Executive Chef Marco Cammarata and GM Killian Donoghue, are heavy into incentivising.
Truth to tell, the artful, ergonomic restaurant is easily accessible, located on the front lobby-facing mezzanine of Le Méridien Bangkok, Surawong Road, a moderate schlep from BTS Saladaeng, with ample parking. Moreover, its long-established recipe of over-the-top quality and variety at pocket-friendly prices in a casual, convivial setting is quite compelling. But there's no resting on laurels, hence its new "La Dolce Vita Lifestyle" concept launched May 1.
Cammarata confesses to a personal preference for Mediterranean cuisine but, having curated kitchens across Asia as well as Europe, interprets it as culinary values potentially applicable anywhere. Hence the "From Nice to Portofino + the heart of Asia" tagline.
"La Dolce Vita" (The Sweet Life) was coined by legendary Italian auteur Fellini in a 1960 movie (iconic scene: dancing in Trevi fountain) which also minted "paparazzi".
Translated to plate, it's all about "delivering pleasure at leisure", says Killian, relating the Mediterranean culture of socializing around the dining table for hours (Sunday Brunch runs 12.30-16.30!).
Moreover, everything possible is prepared live, with chafing dishes chucked. That both makes everything fresher and more interactive and underpins the palate-pampering spread's economics: far less waste.
Organic vegetarian appetizers include locally-made Italian giliegina, bocconcini, and burrata mozzarellas, and French truffle-infused brie, camembert etc. that go dreamily with house-baked olive focaccia, soft rolls and proper butter. Prepared salads range quinoa/almond to Italian summer rice.
A neighbouring extremity of the stretch theatre kitchen proffers live risotto, currently rendering the Italian classic with apples, added with mango, and liberal sprinklings of parmigiana.
Live Thai and European salad corners include extraordinary pomelo and papaya salads prepared to order with Isaan sausage and a DIY ceasar or nicoise salad bowl. There's generous sushi and sashimi and cold soba and then fresh seafood, with five types for lunch, more for dinner and brunch. Plus a live seafood dish, such as baby octopus/salsa verde. Still on a briny theme, there's home marinated/smoked sustainable Keita salmon and Spanish mackerel and more.
You can pick your own pizza from the wood-fired oven and explore three exemplary home-made pastas. Delectably al dente cocoa + coffee fettucine with shrimp + asparagus takes some beating, as does spinach ravioli with truffle sauce.
That's just for starters. There's a separate menu of premium main courses, cooked to order, ranging butter-soft braised beef cheek with truffle sauce + creamy mash to merlot seafood soup.
The carvery features two meat and one fish, oft including a thick herb-crusted rack of lamb with spicy tomato sauce + potato croquettes. Plus surf & turf grills to order.
Desserts are similarly indulgent. Multiple homemade ice creams include house originals such as wheatgrass + avocado or hazelnut + mango, paired with macarons, shards of chocolate and fruit toppings, available as a cocktail or blended. A crêpes station whips up dam blanches stuffed with chocolate ganache topped with vanilla ice cream + chocolate sauce. Not to mention, chocolate mousse with passionfruit jam you squirt from a test tube, rich mango cheesecake, St. Honoré, tiramisu, and Abruzzan potato doughnuts, etc.
Sunday Brunch stars live strawberry risotto, foie gras, scallop tartar, egg Rossini, Bollinger Champagne at B2,355 net free-flow/B2,800++ bottle/B590++/glass, and children's activities.
Whatever next? La vida loca?
Lunch (Mon-Sat) B900 net*
Dinner (Thu-Sat) B1,100 net*
Sun Brunch B1,700 net*
*incl. free-flow soft drinks
Free-flow wine, sparkling wine, beer, dinner + Sun brunch: B700 net.
Tel. 02 232 8888/dining.lmbkk@lemeridien.com
