The place is young, the location almost outlandish and the culinary highlight sounds typically unrefined.
But business for Pla Raa, this week's subject of review, is flourishing. Ever since the day it opened its doors two months ago, this Thai-cuisine restaurant has been much-loved by locals in the neighbourhood as well as by highbrow gourmands across the city.
The restaurant was founded by foodie-cum-ex-hotelier, Werasak "Imm" Choonhajak, to celebrate pla ra, the stinky salt-cured freshwater fish known to be indispensable to Thailand's northeastern culinary tradition.
"It all started with my discovery of one of the most delicious recipes of pla ra from Lop Buri province," explained Werajak, a Bangkok native who until recently wasn't a fan of the rustic delicacy.
"The subtle taste of it made me realise that a good Thai pla ra is no less glorious than the Western anchovy. It's our culinary wisdom that should be preserved, treasured and passed on."
His 80-seat brainchild is decked out to offer a breezy and casual cafe feel with a dazzling upscale touch from a low-slung chandelier. Here, dishes centring on the fermented fish may be played up but not limited only to.
More than 100 dishes are offered on the menu under categories including hors d'oeuvre; som tam (sweet, sour and spicy green papaya salad); yum (Thai-styled sour and spicy salad); soup and curry; stir-fry; grills and deep-fry; and rice and noodle items.
Though the menu is only in Thai, there are mouthwatering photographs of the dishes to help non-locals with their decision. And to make it convenient for diners with indecisive minds, there's an 11-item selection of the most recommended dishes.
To kick off the meal, all guests are treated to a complimentary pla ra sub cracker. The bite-sized snack, which serves as a mild-tasting yet very smart introduction to a seductive world of pla ra for first-timers, features wok-fried, coarsely chopped fermented fish atop a thin cracker.
Following the crispy and addictive amuse-bouche, my recent lunch there officially began with a parade of the restaurant's best-selling dishes. Most of them were, however, pla ra-less.
Connoisseurs of som tam will be spoiled for choice here. There are more than 30 options of the dish -- both classic and newly created. Some feature additional elements such as sa-taw (nitta beans), pork crackling, blood cockles, salted egg, pickled clams and grilled beef, to lend the dish an extra frill.
My favourite is som tam maphrao on Muang Non, or the sweet, sour and spicy salad of silky soft flesh of Nonthaburi's young coconut together with green papaya, house-pickled blue crab, fresh eggplant, tomatoes and dried shrimp, finished up with a nutty crunch of med krathin, or seeds of white leadtree (159 baht).
Served in baskets, moo sam chan thord nam pla, or crispy slices of pork belly seasoned with fish sauce (119 baht), and deep-fried salmon belly (149 baht) also proved worthy starters.
For entrées to eat with rice (15 baht per portion), you won't regret having hor mhok thalay maphrao on, or steamed seafood curry pudding with young coconut flesh (229 baht). Immersed in the velvety custard-like pudding inside a whole coconut were squid, prawn, crab and mussels -- all of top quality.
There is also pla kaphong thord nam pla, or deep-fried sea bass with caramelised fish sauce and green mango relish (389 baht); phla goong, or quick-boiled prawn with fresh herbs and sweet roasted chilli oil (159 baht); and kalumplee cha nam pla, or flash-fried cabbage with fish sauce (89 baht).
Tom sab kraduk on, or sour and spicy soup of young pork spareribs and herbs (119 baht), served in a brass pot over flame, was deliciously soothing.
Should you be ready for the real deal, I highly recommend lhon pla ra (99 baht). The savoury sweet dip made with fermented fish, coconut cream and various kinds of herbs came accompanied by a platter of fresh vegetables. As a person who's also new to the pla ra experience (this was the third time in my life that I deliberately ate pla ra), I guarantee the dish will quickly turn a shunner into a follower.
Or you can settle for an easy order of pla ra fried rice with fresh chillies and fluffily crispy deep-fried catfish topping (139 baht) or a spaghetti wok-tossed with chipped meat of the Thai-styled anchovy, crispy salmon and basil (119 baht).
During my visit, the food came quick and the service was enjoyable.
There's plenty of parking space on the premises. Those who don't drive can come by BTS and get off at the Yaek Nonthaburi 1 station. The restaurant is approximately 700m (a 10-minute walk) away.
