Diary of a trendspotter: today's shows

Christian Lacroix broke every rule in the fashion book, with outfits that merrily juxtaposed patterns and fabrics from bright silks to gold brocade
Associated Press Photograph: Pierre Verdy/AFP

Lacroix, who studied art history before turning to fashion design, is famed for his irreverent use of colors inspired by his native Provence
AP Photograph: Pierre Verdy/AFP

The accessories matched the boldness of the outfits
AP Photograph: Pierre Verdy/AFP

Statement pieces included huge silver bauble necklaces and laser-cut perspex bibs
AP Photograph: Pierre Verdy/AFP

Akris is a label known for its timeless elegance - sophistication rather than jumping on the latest trends. And the show got top marks from me before it even started - this fashion journalist is sophisticated enough to be wooed by some delicious chocolates on the seat Photograph: Patrick Kovarik/AFP

The show notes promised a "feminine answer to the architectural approach" and trees at the end of the catwalk promised a natural approach. But if that sounds hippy - it wasn't. Nature appeared in the earth tones - nudes, browns, teals - but not in the immaculately cut suits and light-as-air leather jackets. Photograph: Patrick Kovarik/AFP

The only prints were lovely garden and woodland scenes pixellated and digitalised onto fabric, creating an almost abstract, ethereal effect. One of the prints was called "A promenade through a grove at noon" - a walk I'd happily take. Combing elegance and nature doesn't seem easy but I think Akris pulled it off wonderfully. Photograph: Patrick Kovarik/AFP

"This collection," announced the show notes at Andrew Gn, "is inspired by Helena Rubenstein returning from a trip to India". I think we can assume she travelled first class, possibly with a suitcase of precious stones in the hold Photograph: Christophe Ena/AP

The ready to wear line was more reminiscent of the 60s than trips to India, with suits in black and white with gold and silver details Photograph: Christophe Ena/AP

The Atelier collection was more ornate - jewel-encrusted cocktail dresses and evening coats, several inspired by a 19th century Kashmir shawl, or so the programme informed us Photograph: Christophe Ena/AP

The show culminated in a series of show-stopping floor length evening gowns, positively dripping in jewels. "Helena Rubenstein ... may not have been body perfect" said the notes - but you might have to be to wear these creations Photograph: Christophe Ena/AP

The Emanuel Ungaro show melded 'Captain Jack Sparrow' with 'Al Capone' Photograph: Francois Guillot/AFP

... with swashbuckling tassels and structured, feminine dresses Photograph: Maya Vidon/EPA

... all topped off with white, wide-brimmed trilbies Photograph: Maya Vidon/EPA

Chunky necklaces were a top feature of the Dries van Noten show Photograph: Francois Guillot/AFP

The final walk at Dries van Noten Photograph: Francois Guillot/AFP

Hussein Chalayan found inspiration in cars, from their speed... Photograph: Michel Euler/AP

...to their destruction Photograph: Michel Euler/AP

Roses rained on the catwalk as Rykiel celebrated her milestone with a star-studded party that proved she is still going strong at 78.
AP Photograph: Pierre Verdy/AFP

Like a greatest hits compilation, the display showcased all the ingredients that have come to symbolize Rykiel: jaunty berets studded with rhinestones, intarsia sweaters with butterfly or lip motifs, mannish trouser suits and candy-colored ostrich feather coats.
AP Photograph: Pierre Verdy/AFP

Sonia Rykiel's show also included some rather unusual looks Photograph: Pierre Verdy/AFP