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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Travel

Designer David Koma's guide to Tbilisi: the hottest restaurants and coolest concept stores

What is your favourite destination and why?

I was born in Tbilisi and lived there until my teenage years, so it will always be my first home. I have endless love for Georgia, a country where breathtaking landscapes meet ancient history and an incredibly warm, generous culture. It’s a place where you can have breakfast overlooking snow-capped mountains, lunch in a bustling city café, and dinner by the Black Sea. Georgian hospitality is truly unmatched. We don’t just welcome you into our homes, we make you feel like family.

When was the last time you were there, and who were you with?

I try to go at least once a year to see friends and family. My most recent visit was in June, and it was extra special because I took a group of friends from London who had never been. I wanted them to feel the magic of the city. Seeing their reactions reminded me how extraordinary Georgia is through fresh eyes.

Where do you like to stay there?

I always recommend Stamba (stambahotel.com), which is inside a beautifully renovated Soviet-era publishing house. It’s industrial yet warm, with a creative energy running through it. They host exhibitions, events, and have a co-working space full of creatives. There’s even a vertical farm in the building that supplies the restaurant downstairs, which is always buzzing, from breakfast until late at night. The team behind Stamba also operates Rooms Kazbegi (roomshotels.com/hotel/kazbegi), a meticulously curated hotel in the snow-capped mountains with amazing views. You can even treat yourself to a helicopter ride there from Tbilisi for an extra special arrival.

What is your favourite meal there?

It has to be khinkali — Georgian dumplings, filled with juicy minced meat, herbs, and spices. The trick is to eat them with your hands, biting a small hole, sipping the broth inside first, then finishing the rest. And, of course, you can’t visit Georgia without trying the wine. Georgia is often called the cradle of wine with an 8,000-year-old winemaking history. The local amber wines, made in clay vessels called qvevri, are rich, slightly nutty, and deeply aromatic. The sweet reds are also a treat!

David Koma (Daniel Hambury/Stella Pictures Ltd)

What are your top three restaurants?

Shavi Lomi (instagram.com/shavilomi)) is must for their pkhali, an appetiser of finely chopped vegetables mixed with ground walnuts, garlic, and herbs. It’s so uniquely Georgian. Restaurant Littera (instagram.com/littera_restaurant) inside the historic Writer’s House serves a refined, modern take on Georgian cuisine. Ethno Tsiskvili (tsiskvili.ge/ethno-tsiskvili)is a full cultural experience with traditional food, folk dancing and live music.

What would you do if you only had 24 hours there?

It would never be enough, but here’s my dream day. Visit as many of Tbilisi’s historic churches as you can, seeing the architecture that spans ancient stonework to intricate frescoes. Then wander the cobbled streets of the Old Town, stopping for a coffee in one of its many charming cafés. For lunch, head to Shavi Lomi for pkhali. And in the evening, the ultimate experience is dinner at a local home, sharing homemade khachapuri (warm bread stuffed with cheese), wine, and conversation — the truest taste of Georgian life.

What is the one unmissable thing you recommend doing?

Visit Mtskheta, one of the oldest cities in the world, just 20km from Tbilisi. Visit Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and Jvari Monastery, which are both Unesco World Heritage Sites. Wander the local bazaar for spices, carpets, and colourful churchkhela, a traditional sweet made by dipping strings of walnuts into thickened grape juice. On the way back, stop at Salobie for traditional food!

Is there a hidden gem you are willing to share?

The Dry Bridge Flea Market. It’s not glamorous, but it’s a treasure trove of paintings by local artists and Soviet-era memorabilia, and beautiful vintage finds.

Who do you call to have a good time there?

My childhood friends, whom I’ve known since kindergarten. Georgians are loyal for life, and a night out with them is always unforgettable.

Favourite shops?

IERI Concept Store (https://ieristore.com). It’s a beautifully curated space that champions Georgian designers, offering everything from ready-to-wear to accessories and unique lifestyle pieces. You can find some of my own designs there.

The one thing you would bring home as a souvenir?

Traditional Georgian enamel jewellery, which is colourful, handcrafted and full of history.

Your favourite beauty spot?

Take the funicular or cable car to Mtatsminda Mountain for panoramic views of the city. It’s magical, especially at sunset.

Restaurant Littera (Restaurant Littera)

Your packing essential?

Comfortable shoes as you’ll be walking over cobblestones all day.

A song that reminds you of the place?

Sait Midikhar by Giya Kancheli. He’s Georgia’s most celebrated composer. This song is bittersweet and nostalgic and it feels like home.

Your dress code for the destination?

I’d say all-black, flowy pieces for summer which would be practical for the heat, often above 30C and extra-warm coats for the winter when the temperature drops to single digits.

Where do you like to let your hair down?

Tbilisi’s nightlife is incredible, and my favourite spot is Bassiani (bassiani.com), a techno club with a dancefloor set inside a disused swimming pool.

Have you ever had an emergency incident there?

Plenty of mischievous moments growing up, but nothing serious as an adult. Georgian healthcare is excellent so if something does go wrong, you will be well looked after!

Building you would like to live in?

The Bank of Georgia Headquarters — a striking Brutalist riverside structure with two-storey concrete blocks stacked like giant Jenga pieces.

Do you have a top wellness tip for the area — a- spa, gym, beauty?

The Old Tbilisi Bathhouses in Abanotubani are a must-visit. Fed by natural hot sulphur springs, they’re incredibly restorative, and the kisi scrub will leave your skin glowing.

David Koma will be celebrating its 15 year anniversary this London Fashion Week

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