Day trip to Weggis
Mark Twain spent two months in Weggis during his epic trip around Europe, and over a century later you can still see why. With a balmy microclimate, 36 types of orchids and less than 5,000 inhabitants, it's a perfect place to unwind.
The ferry that took me on the 40-minute ride to Weggis from Lucerne was so cosy I was tempted to stay on for the full round trip - three hours to Flüelen and another three hours back again - but reluctantly I disembarked.
I was very glad I did. A plaque marks Twain's favourite spot, beneath an old oak tree, but if you're looking for a more luxurious place to rest, Weggis is also home to two excellent hotels.
The first place you come to is the Post hotel (00 41 41 392 2525, poho.ch), right beside the quay. From the outside it doesn't look like much, but the interior is stunning.
With 1960s retro-chic design, just the right side of trash aesthetic, and furniture by Philippe Starck, it's the sort of trendy place you'd expect to find in Berlin or Hamburg.
However, this boutique bolt-hole pales in comparison with the idyllic Park hotel (00 41 41 392 0505, phw.ch). Located on the edge of town, in 22,000 sq metres of leafy grounds (including a Japanese garden and a stylish modern sculpture park) it boasts a sublime oriental spa and a Michelin-starred restaurant. Recent guests include the 2006 Brazilian World Cup football team.
