When you have friends round, what do you pour them as they arrive? A cold beer? Gin and tonic? A glass of fizz? Not many, I suspect, go for the classic aperitif of dry sherry or vermouth. While I love both, even I don’t tend to pour them for my mates unless they’re fellow sherry enthusiasts. In many ways they were better suited to a more formal style of entertaining, when a pre-dinner drink was accompanied by a few nuts or crisps before you sat down at table.
But now, the before-dinner-drink may turn out to be the all-evening-drink with more substantial nibbles or multiple plates of food, or something to keep you going before the barbecue is ready. Now I know you’re probably thinking rosé, but I wrote about that a few weeks ago, and I really want to flag up the virtues of a fruity white.
At the risk of provoking howls of outrage, I’m not a great sauvignon blanc fan, but if I’m going to drink it at any time of year, this is it. The problem is that the Kiwis had a poor vintage in 2021, which has pushed up the price of New Zealand sauvignon blanc. The cost of Loire sauvignon blanc has also been heading relentlessly upwards with Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé typically nearer £20 a bottle than £10. It’s worth looking out for lesser known Loire appellations like Menetou-Salon and Quincy. Try the gorgeously gooseberryish Domaine du Tremblay Quincy Vieilles Vignes 2020 (13%, £14.50) from the Wine Society (if you’re a member).
Riesling is often touted as the perfect summer aperitif, but the touch of sweetness in many is not to everyone’s taste. If that’s you, I suggest trying the deliciously crisp Mac Forbes riesling in today’s pick - also from the Wine Society – which tastes like biting into a crisp green apple. Blends such as the Kakapo white might also work better for you than pure riesling - or, even sauvignon blanc on its own. It would also be worth taking advantage of the special offer on the elegant Villa Antinori Bianco Toscana 2021 (12%), a somewhat unusual blend of trebbiano, malvasia, pinot grigio, pinot blanco and riesling, in which riesling contributes to its prettiness but you’d be hard pushed to pick it out.
Oh, and while I’m at it, a word in favour of the much maligned pinot grigio: try the M&S one from Trentino in north-west Italy, which is crisp, bright and all-round delicious. Just as an aperitif should be.
Five whites to pour as an aperitif
Kakapo White 2021, New Zealand, 12%, £6 Asda. A delicious cocktail of a white that you’ll like if you’re into New Zealand sauvignon. (It does contain sauvignon along with riesling, sémillon and a smidge of chardonnay.)
Taste the Difference Côtes du Ventoux White 2021, £10 Sainsbury’s, 13%. Another great blend - this time clairette, grenache and smooth, creamy vermentino. Refreshing on its own or with food
Photograph: PR
Tanners Gascony Dry White Côtes de Gascogne 2020, £8.95 11.5%. It’s easy to overlook Côtes de Gascogne, but this sauvignon-like white from south-west France is great value
Mac Forbes Spring Riesling 2019, £13.50 The Wine Society, 10.5%. Just the loveliest riesling, full of crunchy green apple fruit. Would be great with fresh crab, too
M&S Mezzacorona Pinot Grigio Riserva 2020, £10 or £60 for 6 bottles online, 13%. When pinot grigio is good, it can be really, really good. A lovely, crisp mineral Italian white from the Trentino in north-east Italy
For more by Fiona Beckett, go to fionabeckett.substack.com
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