It's one of Cornwall’s finest short walks, the hop from Newlyn to Mousehole. Wandering from harbour to harbour, it feels like you’re stepping out to find the end of civilisation, the roaring Atlantic opening up in powerful blue, the sound of gulls above and the coastal air a mighty force.
Up the hill and along the clifftop and there the Old Coastguard is waiting. It's a pub perched above Mousehole Rock Pool – for sea swimming – and helpfully positioned ahead of Mousehole village.
It would be remiss to skip past it without stopping for a beer or a glass of wine, these best enjoyed in the garden come summer. There are palm trees before the sea. Inside is a fancy place of refuge, with a light connection to London by way of the old Langan’s menu framed in the men’s loo. Bougie, sure, but still Cornish; still a place for breezy afternoons post-swim, warm pasty on the mind.
The Parade, Mousehole, TR19 6PR, oldcoastguardhotel.co.uk
