As I head over the top of the pass from Corris, the great mass of Cadair Idris emerges against a leaden sky. The steep crags that stand above the thickly wooded slopes are coloured a deep purple by the flowering heather, but the usual vibrancy is subdued by the flat, almost sullen, light.
Getting off the bus at Minffordd, I wander up the avenue of chestnut trees that form such an impressive welcome to the mountain. A drift of dry, discoloured leaves stands at the edge of the path, something I wouldn’t expect to see for another month or so, suggesting that the trees are suffering water-stress after the dry summer.
I pause at the foot of the gorge, listening to the gentle – too gentle – sound of water burbling over the rocks. This stream drains from Llyn Cau, a corrie lake, far above and my target for the day’s walk. The steep Minffordd Path stays near the water for much of the route, sidling across the densely wooded hillside and incorporating roots, rock steps and outcrops at every turn. In the heavy heat, even the woodland birds remain quiet as I climb.
The steepness of the trail reflects the glacial origins of the valley, scoured into a U-shaped trough by the repeated invasions of deep, westward-moving ice. In the dank woodland, sounds are softened by the surrounding vegetation and leaf litter. Fallen trees lie matted with moss, a supportive matrix now home to finger-high oak trees growing upwards towards holes in the canopy. Patches of fern display mature fans of leaves, the undersides dotted with spores that break free as you brush past.
Glancing at my watch, I realise that the climb is taking much longer than it used to and I’m increasingly aware of the weight of my pack. I mentally map out the distance remaining to the lake, wondering if I’ve been overoptimistic. Maybe the stile at the top of the gorge, with the long view down the valley, would be a better target?
Sighing inwardly, I wait for a cheerful group of young folk to canter uphill past me, then apply myself again to the climb.
• Under the Changing Skies: The Best of the Guardian’s Country Diary, 2018-2024 is published by Guardian Faber; order at guardianbookshop.com and get a 15% discount
