The steep path up to the headland was scoured to the bedrock by the recent storms, with banks of debris built up at the breaks of slope like shoals in a stream. Long grass at the margin was flattened and the turf had been peeled back from the edges of the rock by the passage of water.
Recent rain, a series of startlingly abrupt and intense showers, had made me wonder whether a walk on the coast path was a good plan – but the view northwards along the coast more than justified the risk of a soaking.
Immense hammerheads of cumulonimbus cloud hung over the coastal hills, blotting out the usual distant profile of Snowdon and its companion peaks. Along with smaller shower clouds they brought deep shadows to the landscape, with angular plumes of rain cutting across what view remained. “Precipitation within sight” as the stolid tones of the shipping forecast would have it.
At several points along the cliffs towards Aberaeron, waterfalls flowed wide and white on to the foreshore, shedding excess water from the landscape in a manner much more conspicuous than in the early summer, when I last visited.
The dubious weather didn’t seem to concern the two boatloads of wildlife watchers who passed by close offshore – but I suspect that their search for the local bottlenose dolphins wasn’t hugely successful.
From my vantage point high above the boats I could see white-topped waves beginning to break around the offshore rocks, conditions that make it difficult to see the sleek dark backs of the dolphins and might convince them to seek more sheltered locations.
At the very top of the cliff a wooden sign, somewhat the worse for wear, reminded me that it was still four miles to Cwmtydu, my intended destination. Looking at the impressive bank of cloud moving rapidly in from the west, I began to doubt my resolve.
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This year’s lecture in honour of the late Country diarist William Condry, given by Jim Perrin, is “A Thoreau for Our Time”, on 7 October, in MoMA/Tabernacle, Machynlleth. Tickets £5 on the door, to include refreshments. More information at www.thecondrylecture.co.uk
