The sun always shines on Chipping Campden. Or so it seems, the mellow Cotswold stone somehow generating its own warmth and glow, even in winter. No wonder this pretty town is a key Cotswolds destination.
Sitting in prime position, right at the heart of things, behind the dignified sixteenth century Town Hall on the High Street - and offering a welcome embrace with its own honey-coloured masonry, Regency sash windows and grand pillared entrance - is the Cotswold House Hotel and Spa.
Deceptively spacious - it incorporated adjoining Montrose House years ago - the Grade II listed hotel has that cosy, unmistakable feeling of a grand, former private townhouse, even though it’s been a hotel since the late 1930s.
Running off the reception with its wonderful old, patterned stone floor, is a beautiful curved timber staircase complete with ornate handrail, and an equally elegant sitting area with comfy seats and homely fireplace, a cocktail bar (where they do superb ‘specials’). Two comfortably appointed dining rooms running off the hall accommodate the Hidcote Brasserie and Grill. It all feels reassuringly traditional, reassuringly mellow.
Dig deeper (the hotel attracts history buffs, especially from the US) and you’ll discover that in the cellars lies evidence of previous buildings, even a medieval well. No wonder the collective buildings lay claim to two separate ghosts.
Peace and tranquillity
Outside, at the front, visitors can sit outside on a small terrace and watch the world go by (lots of Land Rovers, the occasional tractor, many hikers and one or two horses), while guests seeking peace and tranquillity will escape to the extensive gardens at the back of the premises in this dog-friendly hotel.
Leading to the Spa and car park at the far end, the gardens twist and turn past a modern ‘fountain’, through a secluded terrace resplendent with tables and chairs, and past a series of discrete, curvy hedge-lined sitting areas, each with their own sun lounger and attractive planting, all within a walled garden. It’s easy to find a hidden, quiet spot - bliss on a hot day (harder to find a dog poop bin, not yet included in the refurb).
The hotel has 28 rooms and suites, all recently refurbished, the refurbishment set to be rolled out to the public rooms where, although some work has already been undertaken, including smart new couches in the bar, there are signs of age, with windows calling out for a fresh coat of paint.
Our spacious junior suite had a generously sized bed, an outsize, modern-style couch and small sitting area outside with a table and chairs, although it wasn’t entirely private. The room’s piece de resistance was its large bathroom sporting a ‘stone’ bath big enough to float away in. The bathroom - similar to other rooms in the hotel - had unusual design touches including a creative ceiling light that looked as though it was created from dozens of little metal cones, complemented by colourful glass vases on shelves, and a big walk-in shower (even if the rose was slightly too big and leaky; pressure was low).
The room was comfy, with neutral tones, a complicated ‘scene’ lighting menu and included a bed for Fergal, our miniature Schnauzer. Despite the refurb, aspects, such as the frayed couch, outside table and French doors to the garden, showed distinct signs of wear and aging. The furniture surely looked great when installed - years ago. In our room, however, it showed signs of wear and tear. Shabby chic is fine for antiques – it doesn’t work as well with built-in furniture. Another (First World) glitch; why no fold-over or ‘envelope’ on the pillow cases, to prevent the actual pillow coming out?
Mint condition
The cocktail bar - proudly advertised outside the hotel on a wall sign - is probably the beating heart of the Cotswold House Hotel and Spa; their Minted Mule (tequila, lime juice, ginger beer, mezcal and mint and one of their seasonal offers) demonstrating the bar staff’s skills.
We dined in the bar too (dogs aren’t allowed in the main dining rooms) enjoying the same menu offered in the brasserie, boasting a varied selection of small plates, salads, including dishes ‘from the grille’ and ‘from the land’. The Cornish lemon sole with caper beurre noisette was as delicious and well-cooked as any I’ve ever had. The fresh, tasty ingredients shone through in the wild mushroom spinach and truffle ravioli too. Service was friendly and impeccable.
Sitting - with Fergal - in a separate ‘snug’ hidden behind the bar for breakfast, the buffet was adequate, given that most guests ordered cooked meals ranging from smashed avocado on bloomer toast to the Cotswold English Breakfast. By going the extra mile and offering a more sumptuous buffet, guests would feel more of a four-star vibe. ‘Special’ coffees - such as a latte or cappuccino - are charged as extras, from £3.65. The toast - limp, sliced - was disappointing; we’d hoped for a selection including good local sourdough.
The full treatment
The Spa - in a separate building, complete with hydrotherapy pool and steam room - offers a haven of serenity; guests aged over 18 get two ‘free’ hours, per day. There are also five treatment rooms and 12 beds, offering a full range of spa treatments.
Those seeking a change of pace should visit The Noel Arms, the sister hotel located directly opposite, with more of a country pub vibe downstairs and far more attractive than its smartphone website picture (taken from the rear, instead of the pretty, historic, front) suggests. It’s worth visiting for chef Indunil’s award-winning curries, alone. We tried the Chef’s Special Curry from the Far East (£18) and the Thai Red King Prawn and Green Bean Curry (£19.50). Both were excellent, the service likewise.
You can see why guests - many from the US and Canada - head for the charms of Cotswold House Hotel and Spa; the location and the building itself could hardly be better. Chipping Camden itself is great to mooch around in too, and there are fantastic country walks right from the High Street.
Staying in one of the Cotswolds’ finest towns comes at a cost. Room rates start at £150.00 B&B winter, and from £250.00 B&B summer, based on two people sharing a Classic room. But they climb with the temperature in summer (our Junior Suite rises to £400 B&B). It’s a wonderful location, in a wonderful building, with some wonderful staff. We look forward to following the renaissance, as the refurb - and no doubt investment – meets that four-star ‘sparkle’, and the tariffs.
Cotswold House Hotel & Spa, Upper High Street, The Square, Chipping Campden, Gloucestershire, GL55 6AN, telephone 01386 840330
