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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Travel

Corsica's sun-blessed coast

An island in the Mediterranean sea between the French mainland and Sardinia, Corsica is officially part of France, yet it remains a world apart. It has its own language, character, and 620 miles (1,000km) of sun-blessed coast. Lucky are the 300,000 people who call these sublime shores home.

Luckiest of all, perhaps are the inhabitants of l'Ile Rousse, on the northern tip of the island. Despite its name, it is not an island, but a town situated on a promontory of crimson rock that pokes out into one of northern Corsica's most picturesque bays.

The area has been inhabited since ancient times, but the modern town was founded in the 18th century by Pascal Paoli to create a port that could operate independently of the Genoese, who controlled Calvi to the south-west. The two ports dominated trade to the north-western region of Corsica known as La Balagne.

Today, l'Ile Rousse is a charming mixture of old and new, a modern seaside promenade separating the beach from the old town, where Place Paoli is the best location to while the day away waiting for one of the area's celebrated sunsets.

The other major centre of La Balagne is Calvi. Tucked into the north-west corner of the island, Calvi's most famous landmark is its walled Genoese citadel, ringed entirely by the sea. The explorer Christopher Columbus is thought to have been born here, and the ruins of his supposed home are nestled among these ancient streets. South of town, Calvi's five-mile beach arcs in a golden sweep of sand, and is ideal for watersports such as windsurfing, paragliding and diving. Scuba fans should descend to the second world war B-17 bomber that lies submerged in the bay.

France, Corse du Sud, Ajaccio Gulf
Bloodthirsty islands: Ajaccio's Iles Sanguinaires. Photograph: Hemis/Alamy

Ajaccio, Corsica's capital, was the birthplace of another larger-than-life character: French emperor Napoleon Bonaparte. Today this thriving city lures history buffs with its Musée de la Maison Bonaparte, Napoleon's childhood home-turned-museum, as well as the recently renovated Palais Fesch, which houses works by Botticelli, Perugino and Titian. Scattered off Ajaccio's coastline, the Iles Sanguinaires – so named for their scarlet hue at sunset – attract art aficionados too: Matisse painted the islands a century ago.

To the south, Corsica's Sartenais, Valinco, Taravo region offers a fascinating mix of mountain villages, such as historic Sartène, prehistoric sites, including 8,000-year-old Filitosa, and Propriano's clutch of sun-splashed beaches. East of here, chic Porto-Vecchio is another coastal gem. The town is a short drive from the world-class beaches of Palombaggia, Rondinara and Santa Giulia, and hosts a superb Sunday market, perfect for stocking up on AOC brocciu cheese and locally cured fegatelli salami.

Bustling Bastia is the star of the island's north-east coastline. This working port is edged by simple seafood restaurants and makes an excellent launch pad for exploring the wilds of northern Cap Corse or Patrimonio wine country, to the west.

Keen to take on the entire island? So is the Tour de France. On 29 June, the 100th edition of the world's most famous cycling race pedals out of Porto-Vecchio. The three Corsican stages end in Calvi two days later, on 1 July, passing through Bastia, Corsica's 18th-century capital of Corte and Ajaccio en route.

To find out more about this destination, visit gotofrancenow.com/seaside-lifestyle/corsican-coast

Holiday offer

Seven-night stay for two people at the three-star Hotel La Lagune, in Lucciana near Bastia, on B&B basis. Includes flights from London Gatwick with easyjet. From £699 per person. Visit crestaholidays.co.uk/atout-france/corsica-coast

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