Japanese fashion house Comme Des Garçons has been accused of “cultural appropriation” for styling white male models in what look like cornrow wigs.
The brand showcased the runway look at Paris Fashion Week on Friday as part of its autumn/winter 2020 collection.
Critics hit out at the label for choosing white men to display an aesthetic strongly linked to black culture.
However, the hairstylist later defended his creation as a "homage" to ancient princes.
Three black models also took part in the show, with one sporting the plaited wig while the other two wore their hair naturally.
Social media users were quick to question the look, with fashion critic HauteLeMode tweeting: “Comme des garçons put white models in cornrows and it’s not okay.”
Writer Aja Barber commented: “Too busy laughing to be offended. This is a mess." While supermodel Adwoa Aboah asked simply: “Are we surprised?”
But hair stylist Julien d'Ys, who designed the wigs for the show, insisted he hadn’t intended “to hurt or offend anyone.”
Sharing a sketch on his Instagram page, he said he had been inspired by the hairstyles of ancient Pharaohs.
“My inspiration for the comme des garçons show was Egyptian prince - a look i found truly beautiful and inspirational. A look that was an hommage,” he wrote.
“Never was it my intention to hurt or offend anyone, ever. If I did I deeply apologise.”
His comments prompted some users to ask why, if this was the case, he hadn’t used Egyptian models on the runway instead.
