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Chicago Tribune
Chicago Tribune
Lifestyle
Leah Eskin

Coconut, star of many food trends, bakes up beautifully in pound cake

Coconut is optimizing its resume. As it should. No job is secure in the gig economy, not even topping seven-layer bars over the holidays.

Coconut counts up its credentials: the tropical background, that first job serving as squeaky snack. Extensive travel. The innovation that inspired flake. The collaboration that led to cream pie, curry, candy. The side hustle in cocktails. Impressive.

Now, when many a fruit is packing it in, padding the 401(k), picking out real estate in the Keys, coconut is taking on the 21st-century challenge: retooling, again.

Coconut's got new skills: not just meat and milk, but oil, sugar and flour. A cake mixed from coconut components might, the baker reasons, reconstitute into a whole shaggy brown nut.

It doesn't. Coconut pound cake bakes up moist and aromatic, with a dense, fine-grain crumb. Add that to coconut's handbill: megatasker.

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