Being in London in the springtime is a magical experience whether you are visiting or live here year-round. Trees burst with blossom and their petals fall like snow on the pavement, swirling and collecting in great pink mounds in the gutters. To me, this juxtaposition of the street is the epitome of London – both pretty and edgy. Violet bakery has a row of cherry trees lining its path that cast the sweetest dappled shadows on its stark white architecture. They help to signify the change of season and herald the arrival of new produce for our bakers.
Outdoor rhubarb can be forgotten when the colour and cheer of earlier, forced Yorkshire rhubarb is so revered. The outdoor variety – which has thicker, green stalks – can look a bit drab by comparison. But don’t be fooled. The flavour is bright, yet deep and complex. I even love it shaved raw on to salads.
Rhubarb ice-cream
Acidic fruits, such as rhubarb, make great ice-cream flavours, because they stand up to the richness of a creamy custard. If you are making this ice-cream when the trees are still in blossom, throw in a few handfuls of petals (preferably not from the gutter) in place of the vanilla for a heady, honey-like hint. For best results, this should be made in an ice-cream maker. If you don’t have one, freeze the mixture until solid.
For the custard
350g whole milk
150g caster sugar
4 egg yolks
600ml double cream (a large pot)
1 vanilla pod
A squeeze of lemon juice (if needed)
For the rhubarb
1kg rhubarb
180g caster sugar
1 vanilla pod
1 In a heavy-based pan, warm the milk, caster sugar and vanilla pod, seeds scraped, until just beginning to bubble. This won’t take long, so while it’s heating up, put your egg yolks into a bowl and whisk. Pour the double cream into a large bowl with a sieve resting on top of it and set aside.
2 When the milk is ready, temper the yolks by pouring a little of the milk into them, whisking as you go. Now pour the tempered yolks back into the remaining warm milk in the pan. Stirring continuously, heat until the mixture starts to thicken at the bottom of the pan. Strain the custard mixture into the cold cream and whisk well to prevent the custard from cooking any further. Cover and put in the fridge for at least 1 hour to cool.
3 Heat your oven to 180C/350F/gas mark 4. Cut the rhubarb into batons and lay in a baking dish. Coat with the 180g caster sugar and add the vanilla pod, then cover with foil and roast for 20 minutes. Remove the foil then roast for a further 20 minutes, or until the rhubarb is soft and falling apart. Allow to cool.
4 Blitz the rhubarb in a food processor, then stir into the ice-cream custard base. Taste the mixture and add a squeeze of lemon juice or a pinch of sugar to adjust if needed. See tip about sweetness.
5 Pour into your ice-cream maker and churn for about 20 minutes, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Freeze for 1 hour before serving.
Rhubarb roulade (main picture)
Rhubarb is a great match for sweet meringue. This version is really easy and quick to make, as the meringue and rhubarb can be baked ahead.
For the meringue
4 egg whites
250g caster sugar
2 tsp vanilla extract
1 tsp white wine vinegar
2 tsp cornflour
For the rhubarb
500g rhubarb, topped and tailed
1 vanilla pod
100g caster sugar
Zest of 1 orange
A splash of orange blossom water
500ml double cream
2 tsp caster sugar
2 tbsp rhubarb syrup, from roasting
1 Heat your oven to 160C/325F/gas mark 3. Butter and line a 20x30cm swiss roll tin with baking parchment, so the paper is coming right up the sides.
2 Put the egg whites in a squeaky-clean mixing bowl and, using an electric whisk, beat into soft peaks. Add the caster sugar a tablespoon at a time with the whisk running, until all the sugar is incorporated and you have soft, glossy peaks. Fold in the vanilla extract, vinegar and cornflour. Spread into the lined tin, then bake for 30 minutes until it has formed a crust on the surface. Let it cool in the tin.
3 Arrange the rhubarb in a baking dish, and top with the vanilla pod (seeds scraped), sugar and orange zest. Cover the dish with kitchen foil and roast for 20 minutes, then remove the foil and roast for a further 15-20 minutes. Remove from the oven and add the orange blossom water.
4 Separately, pour the cream into a large bowl and whisk until it is just thickening. Do not overwhip it, as it will continue to thicken as it rests. Add the sugar and 2 tbsp roasting syrup from the rhubarb.
5 To assemble the roulade, transfer the meringue from the tin on to a work surface. Spread with the cream, leaving a small border around the edge. Top with the rhubarb, then roll tightly away from yourself. The edge of the meringue should be at the bottom of the roulade for a prettier finish.
Claire Ptak is an author and food stylist and owns Violet Bakery in London. She is the author of the Violet Bakery Cookbook (Square Peg); @violetcakeslondon
