Dec. 19--Q: I purchased a Ford Escape new in 2009. Within two years, rust caused the paint to bubble around the rear passenger wheel well. I went to the dealer where I bought the vehicle and was told that I had to go through Ford customer service. Ford said that, unless the rust was "through," it was not a warrantable claim. The rust warranty period is five years. Now in 2015, the rust is "through." Ford now says the vehicle is out of warranty and, regrettably, there is nothing they can do. I filed a claim with the BBB, and they said the same thing (out of warranty). What are your thoughts?
-- J.B., Elgin, Ill.
A: If you read your warranty information, it clearly stated that the body is only covered for "rust through." Yeah, it stinks when the car begins rusting at an early age. If you like, you can report the problem to the Center for Auto Safety (www.autosafety.org). According to the statement on the website: "Your complaint is vital to get help for consumers through safety recalls, warranty extensions and reimbursement programs."
Q: I saw the 2004 Acura problem from A.P. in Brookfield, and I might have some insight. My 2010 Honda CR-V developed a rumble or stutter at about 50K miles. It felt like driving over rumble strips, but the vibration was in the whole body rather than the steering wheel. This occurred at about 1,500 rpm, and only in fifth gear. When I brought it to my Honda dealer and asked if the mechanic needed any additional information to diagnose the problem, he said no and that he was familiar with this problem. He changed the torque converter ($1,700, but covered by the powertrain warranty), and the problem seems to be solved. My guess is that it was the lock-up clutch in the torque converter, but the mechanic indicated the whole converter was changed, as a unit. I hope this helps!
-- M.L., Barrington, Ill.
A: Right you are! We have personally had a similar experience with one of our vehicles. Prior to replacing the torque converter, we switched to an automatic transmission fluid with a different coefficient of friction than the original, and the problem was solved. Had it not worked, we would have been out only a few dollars.
Q: Throwing a spark plug at a side window to break it is an almost 100-to-1 long shot. Sure, tempered glass will shatter easily, but only under the right conditions. Roy Haeusler, former head spokesman and safety director for Chrysler Corp., used to carry a center punch in his glove box because he knew that breaking a side window of tempered glass required a sharp pointed object. In the newest models, the side glass is now similar to laminated windshield glass to reduce the overall vehicle weight and reduce occupant ejection or partial ejections.
-- W.N., Leesburg, Fla.
A: We were implying that a dedicated tool is unnecessary. Yes, it would be difficult to wind up and pitch a spark plug from inside the car. A ball-peen hammer would probably work, but we have heard of using a spring-loaded center punch before. Not only will it do the job, it is small (about the size of a crayon) and inexpensive (under $10). It is also easily stowed. No matter what tool one has on hand, it will take much presence of mind to locate it and then use it. As a member of SAE International, we were able to locate a paper written by Roy Haeusler titled "Automotive Safety Engineer," so he obviously knew his stuff.
Bob Weber is an ASE-certified master mechanic and freelance writer.
Send questions along with name and town to Motormouth, Rides, Chicago Tribune, 435 N. Michigan Ave., Fifth Floor, Chicago IL 60611 or motormouth.trib@verizon.net.
