May 05--Oh, we love our chili heat. Tabasco on the omelet; giardiniera on the dog; jalapeno on the nachos. But chili heat doesn't love wine. Alcohol is a solvent and spreads out or broadcasts the capsaicin (the organic compound in chili peppers that makes for the burn), making it seem hotter or more potent than it otherwise would be without wine. Maybe you'd want that, but you well might not. A fair amount of chili heat marks this dish (jalapeno, cayenne, chipotle), despite all the vegetable matter, cheese and starch. Just be sure whatever wine you choose is low in alcohol.
THE FOOD
Chard and chicken wraps
Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a skillet over medium-high heat; add 1 yellow onion, chopped; 1 jalapeno, minced; and 1 teaspoon ground cumin. Cook until fragrant and soft, about 5 minutes. Add chopped stems from 3 large Swiss chard leaves (leaves reserved); cook until stems soften, about 3 minutes. Season with salt and cayenne pepper. Add 2 cups chopped cooked chicken; 2 tomatoes, diced; and the chard leaves, chopped; cook until leaves begin to wilt, 4-6 minutes. To serve, divide mixture among 4 flour tortillas; top with shredded Mexican cheese blend, 1/2 cup jarred chipotle salsa and chopped cilantro. Makes: 4 servings
THE WINES
2013 Maculan Pino Toi, Veneto, Italy: A blend of pinot bianco, pinot grigio and friulano (known in dialect as tai), this is crisp, refreshing and notable for its smoothness. $12
Erath Pinot Gris, Oregon: Sourced from several vineyards, this pinot gris carries scents of green apple and citrus, with a nice line of acidity framing everything. $14
2011 Chateau Leboscq, Medoc, Bordeaux, France: A blend of cabernets franc and sauvignon with a lot of merlot; fresh for a red, with good integration of wood and fruit; elegant, not heavy. $24
