July 29--Light- or medium-bodied red wines are the ticket for a dish like barbecued pork, with its complex layering of flavors. But choose red wines that are refreshing in the manner in which white and dry pink wines generally are: with zesty finishing acidity, a solid fruit profile, moderate to very light tannin, and alcohol in balance. A fuller dry ros頷ould be tasty as well, but most white wines would cower beneath this pork preparation's abundance of flavor, chili heat, sweetness and salt. Because this is a summertime dish, reds that can take a chill also make the list.
THE FOOD
Barbecued pork sandwiches
In a small bowl, mix 4 cloves garlic, minced; 1 tablespoon each brown sugar, chili powder and paprika; 1/2 teaspoon each salt, dry mustard, cumin and thyme; and a pinch red pepper flakes. Stir in 2 teaspoons vegetable oil to form a paste. Rub 2 pork tenderloins, about 2 pounds total, with mixture. Let stand, 10 minutes. Grill tenderloins over medium-high heat, turning once, until internal temperature reaches 150-155 degrees, about 20 minutes. Transfer to a platter; cover. Let stand 10 minutes. Thinly slice. Divide sliced pork among buns. Top with barbecue sauce and coleslaw.Makes:6 sandwiches
THE WINES
2014 Chateau de Trinquevedel Ros鬠Tavel, France: Mostly grenache, with four other regional grapes as part of the blend; big on aromas and flavors of ripe berries, with herbal, even earthy hints; no stinting on the crisp acidity. $19
2011 Bodegas Franco Espanolas Rioja Reserva "Bordon," Rioja, Spain: Mostly tempranillo, with a fifth garnacha; hence, buoyant fruit, moderate tannin, lots of spark, very little oak; these sorts of Rioja reds just plainly grace their tables. $15
2013 Dry Creek Vineyard Zinfandel "Heritage Vines," Sonoma, California: The coolest aspect of this wine is that you can tell its grapes are from older vines: The wine has so much personality; gobs of fruit, lilt, freshness; it's a juicy sip. $20
Bill St. John has been writing and teaching about wine for more than 40 years.
