Dec. 10--The convention when pairing wine with either eggs or ham is "don't." Ham is too salty; eggs, too gooey. (They gum up the palate and block any wine's flavors.) But there are saltier foods than ham that beg for wine (oysters, for instance, and Muscadet; or salted nuts and fish and fino sherry). And cooked-through eggs have all the goo gone. Many wines can successfully pair up with this dish, despite all that's going on in it. That's what zesty acidity, lean structure, moderate alcohol and low tannin in wines are meant for. And that's what's recommended.
THE FOOD: Fried rice with ham, egg, onions and peas
Heat 3 tablespoons oil in a skillet until hot. Add 3 cloves garlic, minced; cook, 1 minute. Add 3/4 cup each chopped onion and chopped ham; cook until ham is slightly crisp and the onion softens, about 5 minutes. Stir in 3/4 cup peas; cook, 1 minute. Pour in 3 beaten eggs; toss vigorously, breaking up any large egg clumps, about 1 minute. Cook until eggs firm, about 2 minutes; stir in 4 cups cold cooked white rice. Toss rapidly, until rice heats through, about 2 minutes. Season with soy sauce. Makes: 4 servings
THE WINES
2011 Matetic Syrah EQ, San Antonio, Chile: A cool-climate syrah from the Pacific Coast; quite fruity, yes, but leanly turned out; with pretty spice notes and low tannin. $25
2012 Abbazia di Novacella Pinot Grigio, Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy: Yes, terrific pinot grigio still comes from Italy for less than $30 a bottle; here's one, all apples and pears and fine crispness. $20
2012 Fred Loimer Riesling Reserve Steinmassl, Kamptal, Austria: Nothing like an Austrian riesling to cut through anything -- salt, fat, sugar, it takes all comers; this is especially lean and tight. $25
