Nov. 25--Oh, yeah: steak, butter, cream. Who ya gonna call? Red wine. But not just any red wine; you need -- your palate needs -- something rich in tannin, an organic substance found in many plant tissues, including grape skins and stems and oak barrels. Add together these three latter elements and it's a recipe for red wine. You already know tannin; it's in tea leaves, walnut and almond skins; too-long-chewed Popsicle sticks. Tannin binds with fat and blood protein to make them seem less oily; they in turn soften tannin's astringency. They need each other and you need tannin.
THE FOOD: Filet mignon with mushroom sauce
Heat a skillet over medium-high heat until very hot. Cook 2 filet mignon steaks, about 6 minutes per side for medium-rare. Remove steaks from skillet; keep warm. Melt 1 tablespoon butter in the skillet; add 12 ounces sliced mushrooms. Cook until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Transfer mushrooms to a plate. Deglaze skillet with 1/4 cup dry red wine. Stir in 1/2 cup beef broth; increase heat to high. Cook until syrupy and reduced by half, about 4 minutes. Decrease heat to low; stir in 1/4 cup cream and the mushrooms; cook 1 minute. Serve over the steaks. Makes: 2 servings
Recipe by Bill Daley
THE WINES
2010 Chateau de Mattes-Sabran Le Viala, Corbieres, France: A big, chunky, richly textured southern France blend of syrah, mourvedre and grenache; super value for all the richness you get in both flavor and plush tannin. $20
2011 Marichal Tannat Reserve Collection, Canelones, Uruguay: As its name suggests, the grape tannat is rich in tannin, but rarely ones that grate, more that sweep clean the palate; chewy, plush, teeth-scouring though smooth. $20
2012 J. Garcia Carrion Vina Arnaiz Roble, Ribera del Duero, Spain: Juicy example of simple, straightforward, deeply colored tempranillo; great buy. $15-$20
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