Dec. 23--Many Mediterranean cultures eat fish for New Year's Eve; fish cakes are rarely absent from a menu that might include multiple preparations of seafood. These cakes, slightly spicy and with lots of complementary flavors, nicely mark a dinner at year's end. And so do the recommended wines, all bubblies and from three different countries. Some feel that sparkling wines are the globe's best overall food wines; they enliven and flavor the food; they refresh and cleanse the palate. Their unique structure -- high acidity, lean texture and, of course, those thousands of bubbles -- make them special.
THE FOOD: Spicy fish cakes
Coarsely chop 1 rib celery, half an onion and half a green bell pepper. Pulse in a food processor until finely chopped. Add 3 chopped sole fillets, 5 ounces each; pulse to coarsely chop. Transfer to a bowl; stir in 1 teaspoon salt, plus 1/2 teaspoon each dry mustard, red pepper flakes, dried thyme and Old Bay seasoning. Add 1 egg, stirring lightly until combined. Fold in 1 cup leftover mashed potatoes. Form into 8 patties; lightly coat with breadcrumbs. Fry in about 1/4 inch of oil in a skillet to brown on both sides and cook through, 4 minutes per side. Makes: 4 servings
Recipe by Donna Pierce
THE WINES
NV Sektkellerei Szigeti Gruner Veltliner Brut, Neusiedlersee, Austria: Gruner veltliner is not a common grape for the bubbly but a winner here; green apple flavors, white pepper finish. $20
NV Ricci Curbastro Brut, Franciacorta, Italy: A third pinot blanc for softness, almost twice as much chardonnay for focus and a dollop of pinot noir for perfume; a terrific methode champenoise from outside France. $30
2010 Schramsberg Blanc de Noirs, North Coast, California: This is 15 percent chardonnay, the remainder pinot noir; lots of fruit, gobs of texture and length of flavor. $35
