Dec. 29--If I were a wine and I had to marry this recipe, I'd ask it, "OK, where am I pairing up with you? With the meaty richness of the lamb? With the sweet-and-tangy of the yogurt? With the starch and base of the vegetables and grains?" How about we make this a catholic wedding and suggest that a lot of wines -- red, pink, white, sparkling, even off dry -- would succeed. But the common element to them all is bracing acidity, a textural component that works with or scours away all the many other elements present in the dish.
THE FOOD: Lamb ragout
Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a Dutch oven over medium high-heat. Add 2 carrots, coarsely chopped; cook 5 minutes. Add 12 pearl onions, blanched, skins removed; cook, 5 minutes. Add 2 cups cubed cooked lamb, 1 can (14 1/2 ounces) chicken broth and salt to taste; cook, stirring occasionally, until heated through, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat; stir in 1/2 cup plain yogurt and pepper to taste. Serve over cooked whole grains, such as farro or brown rice. Makes: 4 servings
Recipe by Joe Gray
THE WINES
NV Gruet Blanc de Noirs Brut, New Mexico: Yes, New Mexico, where a few folks from Champagne settled and make some of America's best sparklers such as this slightly pink, dry, smooth, terrifically delicious bubbly. $13-$16
2012 Alois Lageder Pinot Grigio Porer, Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy: Lageder's high-end grigio; juicy, fat with texture and weight for the grape; stone fruit aromas and tastes, nice acidity. $25
2013 County Line Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California: A second label of a well known winery (can't say which); great big wafts of cherry fruit aroma; finishes crisply. $26
