Oct. 28--Cooks forget how acidic tomatoes are and, consequently, how only certain wines successfully pair with them at table, notably wines that are also zingy with acidity. Many white wines fill that bill; tangy reds are more difficult to find. But with a hearty dish like this one, a red is what you'll want. Perhaps this explains the ubiquity of sangiovese vines in Italy, a country that knows a lot about tomatoes and red wine and how they taste together. Sangiovese-based red wines always sport zesty acidity, along with lots of red fruit character and generally mild tannin, all perfect here.
THE FOOD: Polenta with sausage and hearty sauce
Saute 2 cloves chopped garlic in 2 tablespoons olive oil in a saucepan, 1 minute. Add 1 can (32 ounces) Italian plum tomatoes, roughly chopped; season with salt. Simmer until sauce thickens, 10 minutes. Add 1 package (9 ounces) cooked chicken sausages, cut into 1/2-inch pieces. Stir in 1 pound spinach; cook, covered, until greens wilt. Meanwhile, crumble 1 package (18 ounces) precooked polenta into another saucepan with 1 cup chicken broth and 1 teaspoon salt; cook over medium heat, stirring, until polenta is smooth and warmed through, 10 minutes. Serve topped with the sauce. Makes: 4 servings
Recipe by Joe Gray
THE WINES
2012 Avignonesi Rosso di Montepulciano, Tuscany: A plush, deeply pigmented version of sangiovese, moderate on the tannin, no skimping on the acidity. $20-$22
2010 Seghesio Sangiovese, Alexander Valley, Sonoma, Calif.: A West Coast turn on this Italian grape variety, with black cherry-like fruit and abundant tannin. $25
2012 Castello di Monsanto Monrosso, Chianti Colli Senesi, Tuscany: This stellar producer of Chianti Classico wines also puts out this easygoing red from its home vineyards that is as good a buy as they come. $10-$15
