Jan. 24--For a restaurant named for a specific reddish tint, Sepia, which occupies a West Loop building that was once a 19th century print shop, puts out some pretty colorful Restaurant Week menus.
There are three menus in all. There's a three-course lunch, $22, highlighted by smoked-trout and pork-sandwich main courses. Dinner offers a choice of three- or four-course meals ($33 or $44), which vary only by that fourth course.
Take that option (and you should), and you'll start with a vividly colored blood-orange and fennel salad with baby arugula, duqqa (an Egyptian herb, nut and spice mix) and white dots of labne; or thick, unctuous pieces of cured mackerel over a refreshing melange of green olive, golden raisins and ciabatta breadcrumbs.
The second course (or first, if you opt to save 11 bucks) offers umami flavors in brown and beige tones. A soft-boiled egg sits upright on a bed of mushroom ragu (break open the egg, and a torrent of yolk washes over the mushrooms), accompanied by a thin beam of toast spread with truffle butter. A single plump raviolo stuffed with shredded duck sits over reduced duck jus and is topped with bits of Medjool date, flecks of rosemary and tiny flakes of grana padano.
Entree courses include green broccoli rabe and masala-spiced potatoes which add contrast to whitefish, its crisped skin crusted with Middle Eastern spices (cumin, coriander and more). The other option is a delicious grilled pork collar placed over soft pieces of cheddar and corn spoonbread, collard greens and a soft dab of smoked apple butter.
Cindy Schuman's desserts never disappoint me. She offers two for lunch and dinner. I'm especially fond of the ginger-lime parfait, presented as an upright cylinder dripping with mango sauce, alongside a thin line of coconut crumble, but chocolate fans will rejoice in the crunchy chocolate-hazelnut tart with dots of pear sauce.
Wine pairings are available for $20 or $28, depending on the number of courses; sommelier Authur Hon is a wizard at wine matches and makes some nifty pairings here.
I, and other Tribune writers, will be filing restaurant reports every day during restaurant week, so please check back. The ninth annual Chicago Restaurant Week runs through Feb. 4. For a list of participants, menus and online reservations, visit www.eatitupchicago.com
Phil Vettel is a Tribune critic
