This gorgeous jam is perfect for a special occasion or as a gift to someone who you know will appreciate it. There’s a beautiful circularity with this flavour combination (think bakewell tart) as cherry pits (and other stone fruit such as bitter almonds and apricots) are a source of benzaldehyde, which is the flavour compound associated with almond essence and amaretto liqueur.
Sticking with the theme, mahleb is a powder made from the seed of a St Lucie cherry and gives a unique almond/vanilla flavour to many Mediterranean cakes and pastries.
The cherry season in the UK is short – frozen cherries will give you a similar outcome.
Makes 4 x 200g jars
cherries
500g, frozen or fresh
granulated sugar 250g
lemon juice of ½
amaretto liqueur 60ml
pectin powder 1 tsp (see notes)
mahleb ½ tsp, finely ground, or almond essence
The day before making the jam, wash the cherries in cold water (if they’re fresh) and cut each one in half to remove the pit, or defrost the frozen cherries. Place the cherries in a large pan with the granulated sugar, lemon juice, amaretto, pectin powder and mahleb/almond essence. Bring the mix to a brief simmer, then remove from the heat, cover and leave to macerate overnight.
The next day, place a small plate in your fridge to chill. Bring the fruit to the boil, stirring regularly to eliminate hot spots. Skim the surface as required with a slotted spoon and continue to boil for 5-10 minutes until the temperature reaches 105C. Check the set using the wrinkle test (see notes below), then remove from the heat and ladle into warmed sterilised jam jars, tapping them slightly on the counter to ensure there are no air gaps, then seal and lid.
Notes In my bakery, we use a small amount of pectin powder in jams made with fruit naturally low in pectin. Purists may turn up their noses at this, but if you’ve ever accidentally made jam that just slides off your toast, you’ll know where I’m coming from. You can also thicken jam by cooking it for longer, but it will be much sweeter and the bright colour will be lost. Pectin powder is widely available and is made from powdered apples – nothing else.
For the wrinkle test, place a small flat plate in your fridge when you start. Once your jam reaches 105C, drip about ½ a teaspoon on to the cold plate. Let it cool for a minute, then gently push it inwards with your fingertip. If the surface wrinkles, then your jam is set. If not, continue to boil and repeat the test every few minutes as the jam continues to boil.
From Two Magpies Bakery by Rebecca Bishop (Headline, £26). To order a copy for £22.88 go to guardianbookshop.com
