April 10--Jean-Claude Poilevey, a chef and restaurateur who was an inspiration to Chicago's French-restaurant community during his decadeslong career, was killed in a car crash early Saturday morning, according to Illinois State Police Sgt. P.J. Manno.
Poilevey was the sole fatality of a pileup, caused by snow and icy conditions, on the Eisenhower Expressway around 12:40 a.m. He was out of his car when he was struck in the accident. The crash involved 15 cars, including Poilevey's. Poilevey was returning home after working at his Bucktown restaurant, Le Bouchon.
The accident took place near the Central Avenue exit. Poilevey lived in Oak Park; he was almost home.
"We've lost a very good friend," said fellow chef Carrie Nahabedian, of Naha and Brindille restaurants. "He's been part of the French dining community for 40 years. He's an icon."
Poilevey came to the Chicago area in the late '60s, when he was hired by Arnie Morton to join the culinary staff at the Playboy Club in Lake Geneva, Wis. (The staff included, among others, a very young Jean Banchet.) Poilevey eventually relocated to the city, opening La Fontaine, near Clark Street and Fullerton Avenue, in 1973. Eventually, Poilevey bought out his partners and renamed the restaurant Jean Claude. He closed that restaurant in 1993, and opened Le Bouchon later that year. He added La Sardine in the West Loop in 1998.
His wife, Susanne Poilevey, focused on La Sardine, while Poilevey oversaw Le Bouchon.
"He cooked service every night," said Nahabedian of the 71-year-old chef. "If you walked by, you could see him in the window, making rabbit with noodles in that tiny kitchen."
A man and woman pulled up to La Sardine around 7:30 in the evening to celebrate his birthday.
The man, who didn't give his name, said La Sardine is their go-to place for celebrations. He said they hadn't heard about the accident but called it "very sad news."
"It makes missing a meal not so important," the man said.
La Sardine and Le Bouchon restaurants will be closed Saturday night. Memorial services are pending.
Phil Vettel is a Tribune critic
Tribune reporters Carlos Sadovi, Alexandra Chachkevitch andn Gregory Pratt contributed to this report.
