The metaphorical iterations of the colour blue may have attributed to its aesthetic value. No wonder, it has been the muse of many fashion designers — from Charles Lewis Tiffany’s trademark Tiffany blue and Yuima Nakazato’s 2022 collection Blue Season to Stella McCartney and Fendi taking to its pale shade during the spring/summer ’24 runway shows. Closer home, couturier Anita Dongre is romancing the hue’s association with Nature. Its prominent proportions in her newly launched collection, titled Azure, are coupled with eco-conscious craftsmanship. “True to the inspiration, Azure brings to life the colour spectrum of the ocean and the skies,” says Anita, who sourced Bemberg yarn exclusively from Asahi Kasei, a multinational Japanese chemical company that specialises in chemicals and materials science, for the collection.
A fantastical start
The range, which comprises a variety of kaftans, dresses, saris and skirt sets, was born from a dream. “I woke up one morning, buzzing to come to work and sit with my team because I had this vivid dream involving the sounds, textures and movement of waterscapes, which really inspired me. I wanted to encapsulate the flow and fluidity of water with a quiet feminine sensuality,” says the designer. She started working on the capsule around mid-August last year and states that the Mumbai monsoon added a lovely ambience while designing the collection. “It took us about six months [to curate the edit] because we were quite particular about getting the right fabric that captured the flow I imagined,” she adds. The motifs in the collection, she says, were designed with a watercolour aesthetic and translated on the garment using digital printing.
Beaming with Bemberg
Bemberg is a brand of cupro, which is regenerated cellulose fibre. Made from 100% cotton linter that is a pre-consumer material, Bemberg is a sustainable material that is biodegradable and compostable. “The breeziness of the fabric was a perfect match. For this capsule, while we were working on the moodboard, they [Asahi Kasei] shared their latest development of soil and marine biodegradable yarn and everything just clicked,” says Anita.
She shares that her brand started working with Bemberg about five years ago. “It seemed like a natural partnership since it represents our brand mission of being environmentally conscious. Over the years, we have consistently used Bemberg yarn for many of our designs and we love how invested they are in creating sustainable fibres. The Azure collection is made entirely out of Bemberg yarn,” she says.
Anita believes that Bemberg is uniquely suited for the tropical Indian climate, offering breathability and comfort in the sweltering heat, making it ideal for soaring temperatures and beach weddings. “Its soft, smooth texture adds a touch of luxury, appealing to brides or bridesmaids seeking elegant yet practical attire for destination weddings and fashion enthusiasts who appreciate high-quality fabrics with a touch of luxury,” she adds.
The limited-edition, ready-to-wear capsule, envisioned for summer soirees, ranges between ₹23,000 and ₹65,000 and is available across all of the designer’s stores in India as well as online.
