Welcome to Insider Trading, our column asking the people in the jobs you want how they got there. This week, we’re talking to Charlotte Hicks, the founder and creative director of fashion brand ESSE. She’s a self-described “fabric geek” who spent ten years designing for iconic Australian brands like Zimmermann and sass & bide before launching her own label in 2017, delivering “slow release” editions for a sustainable forever wardrobe.
Ahead of Australian Fashion Week 2026, Charlotte spoke to Insider Trading about inspirations, the realities of fashion design, how AI is set to change the industry, and what she learnt from a very junior mistake (we all make them).
Insider Trading: Charlotte Hicks of ESSE
PEDESTRIAN: Hi! Welcome to Insider Trading. What is your ‘official’ job title?
Charlotte Hicks: On paper, I am the founder and creative director. In reality, I am everything. I handle accounts, marketing, digital — all of it.
PEDESTRIAN: How did you get started in fashion?
Charlotte: I was super traditional. I studied fashion design at UTS, completed a four-year design degree and a graduate collection. My first year out of university, I was a design assistant and worked my way up through the ranks.
PEDESTRIAN: When did you transition from designing for other labels to starting your own brand? What was that leap like?
Charlotte: It took a solid 15 years in the industry. I always knew I wanted to start something, but I wanted to see what to do and what not to do. I wanted to get the experience and soak up as much as I could until the time was right personally to create something meaningful. I knew I didn’t want to just do a namesake brand. I was waiting for that moment where the vision became crystal clear in my head.
PEDESTRIAN: What is a lesson you’ve learned from failure?
Charlotte: It is inevitable and necessary. I remember making junior faux pas, like cutting a sample incorrectly for a brand I used to work for. I had never been so anxious or stressed in my life, waiting for someone to realise I’d made a mistake. When no one did, I realised how much of a waste of energy that stress was. The learning was that you have to make the errors so that you get better. You have to build up that level of attention to detail and understand the weight of the responsibility.
PEDESTRIAN: How would you describe your creative process and where you look for inspiration?
Charlotte: It’s a melting pot. I take a lot of inspiration from my woman. I am an intuitive designer; I think about her life, her day, and how she wants to feel. If she is putting on a dress for an occasion, how does she want to stand? Beyond that, there is a plethora of inspiration from objects, art, architecture, music, or a feeling. I am also a bit of a fabric geek. Sometimes it’s just about proportion and playing with volume. The real challenge is distilling it all down.
PEDESTRIAN: How do you want women to feel when wearing your designs? Does that change season to season?
Charlotte: Funnily enough, no. The reason I do what I do is to make women feel like the best version of themselves. It’s about intuitively knowing she might want to feel masculine and strong, but also sensual, feminine, effortless, and relaxed. It’s about thinking of the purpose of each piece and how it helps her be her best self in every part of her life.
PEDESTRIAN: How do you balance the line between commercial and creative?
Charlotte: It is a daily dance between art and science. Because I am both the founder and the creative director, there is a tension within me. It is about knowing when to push and when to pull. Even as a designer in a big brand, you need to be aware of commercial realities.
PEDESTRIAN: What advice would you give to an aspiring designer, or someone wanting to start their own brand?
Charlotte: They are two very different things. If you are a designer, it is one of the greatest jobs in the world. If it is pumping through your veins, don’t stop. If you want to start your own thing, you are becoming a founder and an entrepreneur. It’s like having a child; it’s beautiful and crazy at the same time. It will test you and push you to your limits. It is a personal growth journey, and you have to be irrationally passionate about it.
PEDESTRIAN: What does a typical day look like for you?
Charlotte: I get up early, around five or six in the morning. I like the morning routine for “deep work”, quiet time to get on top of things, or creative time. Those wee hours are precious. By 8am, I head into the office for a jam-packed day. I jump between all the facets of the business: digital, social, production, operations, and commercial. I try to time-block my week. I head home for dinner and then usually jump back “on the tools” before going to sleep.
PEDESTRIAN: How do you decompress?
Charlotte: I am fortunate to live near the ocean. I have to run and swim; that keeps me sane through the week. I just have to look at the horizon. Music also helps a lot.
PEDESTRIAN: What should people know about the new collection?
Charlotte: The ESSE editions are designed by philosophy to complement each other and work together as a system of dress. The 2026 collection is a mixture of pieces you can buy now, pieces launching in a month, and pieces coming later in the year. It will be live-streamed and completely shoppable the moment things go down the runway. It’s about engaging with our community straight off the bat.
PEDESTRIAN: In an oversaturated market, how do you cut through the noise?
Charlotte: Authenticity is key. You just have to do what feels right for you. Your vibe attracts your tribe; people will find you. We are the “anti” in some ways — a place to go when you are overstimulated or overwhelmed. We try to be a trusted, reliable place.
PEDESTRIAN: How do you think AI will impact the fashion industry?
Charlotte: It will do everything: disrupt, help, and hurt. I’m quite old school, but I have an appreciation for innovation and tech, and there’s a dance between the two. There is a place for optimisation and efficiencies, and it’s great that we can use it for that. However, it will only get you so far. It is the human element that manipulates it and takes it to another level. Ultimately, it’s the human element that brings the magic and the soul to it, no matter how advanced technology becomes. I would never let it design things for me, but if it frees us up for more creative energy, then that is a positive.
RAPID-FIRE ROUND :
- Describe your inbox in three words: Full [but] organised chaos.
- What are you listening to right now? Our show song.
- Which celeb, creator or influencer exhibits true style today? Probably the ones no one knows much about. I gravitate toward women who are doing amazing things and leaving their mark on the world.
- Dream person to dress? I’ve always loved Tilda Swinton. She’s iconic.
- Favourite Sydney nook? Tamarama. It’s home.
- The one item you’d grab from your closet? My black trench.
- Where are you shopping for the perfect t-shirt or wedding guest dress? ESSE, obviously! We have “the” t-shirt coming down the runway, and for a wedding, our Illi strapless maxi dress is perfect.
Crafting your next move? Check out creative industries hiring right now on Pedestrian JOBS.
Lead photo: Supplied / Instagram. This interview has been edited for length and clarity.
The post Charlotte Hicks Of ESSE On What It Actually Takes To Make It In Fashion appeared first on PEDESTRIAN.TV .
