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Bangkok Post
Bangkok Post
Lifestyle
CHRISTOPHER LOMBARDI

Centara Grand at CentralWorld takes festive season fine dining to rarefied new heights

For those accustomed to the finer things in life, Red Sky’s 2018 countdown feast offers a dazzling, uncompromisingly creative epicurean journey of the highest order.

For those accustomed to the finer things in life, Red Sky’s 2018 countdown feast offers a dazzling, uncompromisingly creative epicurean journey of the highest order.

Located atop the Centara Grand CentralWorld, the warmly comfortable and luxuriously appointed fine dining venue offers gasp-inducing views of the city, making this exclusive event the highpoint of the festive dining season.

Comprising an eclectic list of meticulously sourced ingredients and heritage foods, the eight-course menu is a treasure chest of timeless culinary gems from the world over, served with generous helpings of cooking innovation and masterful presentations.

This uncommonly opulent repast is the work of Chef de cuisine Christian Ham, whose more than two decades’ experience includes such prestigious tables as D’Sens, Bangkok; L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon, Hong Kong; Le Crocodile, Strasbourg and Taillevent in his native France, while also having served as a Chef Instructor at Cordon Bleu, Bangkok and Shanghai.

Even Red Sky’s bread basket is a wonder to behold (and nibble), with a selection of exquisite crusts served with premium jumbo olives, which segue nicely into an amuse bouche of French Spéciale No. 2 oysters on half shell in Bloody Mary gelée.

A starter course, resplendent in sterling pedigree, features a tin of Russian Oscietra Caviar (30g) on ice, with a complement of blinis arrayed dish-side just waiting to be slathered in sour cream and classic condiments of egg, parsley and onion. The course’s piece de resistance is a frosty shot glass of Beluga Noble Vodka - a much appreciated touch of authenticity that serves to enhance anticipation of the meal to come.

The next two courses are served together as one, starting with French Erquy Scallop served on the half shell, bathed in a frothy-savoury Mushroom and Leek Sabayon and topped with Bone Marrow and White Alba Truffle. One of the world’s most coveted and costly culinary fungi, the White Alba has an earthy, intense flavour that outshines even its much loved dark toned cousin.

The precious Alba also makes an appearance in the Hokkaido Scallop Carpaccio, served on Celeriac Rémoulade. The combination of micro-diced celery and thick, Alba truffled cream that comprise the dish’s Rémoulade element offers a cool, refreshing counterpoint to its plate-mate’s warm richness.

A Pan-Fried Foie Gras - browned just right - is accompanied by caramelised red cabbage and fresh cranberries in Lobster Sauce. The plate is completed with a strip of gingerbread rusk, beckoning the diner in dramatic rococo tableaux.

Next, a Confit of Quail stuffed with Foie Gras glistens in Madeira Sauce Glaze with a garnish of Apricot Chutney, which is followed by a delicately layered Feuilleté puff pastry brimming with Brittany Blue Lobster and Mushrooms in Martell X.O. with Veal Sweetbreads on the side.

While sipping a flute of Mumm Cordon Rouge Granité - which our somewhat less cultured alter-ego insisted on inwardly referring to as a Champagne slushy - we took in the view from our window table of the tony Rajadamri shopping district fifty-five floors below, with the night time cityscape and mighty Chai Praya River beyond.

With still a more than a half-tank of the complimentary bottle standing by, we are presented with a main course choice of beef or fish.

The Japanese Beef Fillet in red wine sauce is as tender, succulent and flavourful as one might expect from an A5-rated cut of Japanese-sourced meat. Ours is served rare with a seared outer crust, its alluring aroma setting off a primal craving descended from the distant epoch when proto-humans first stumbled upon new dimensions of deliciousness by putting meat to fire. A dollop of silky smooth potato purée generously topped with black truffle completes the plating.

Alternately, the Pan-Fried Turbot Périgord comes nicely browned, bathed in a frothy razor clam sauce, a black winter truffle and porcini Parmentier playing a delectable yin to the pescado’s fresh-flavoured yang.

The sweet, sweet climax of this inspired holiday feast is the Chestnut and Black Current Mousse “Pavlova”, comprising a cluster of meringue drops topped by a candied chestnut, with a financier cake and scoop of raspberry sherbet tucked invitingly beneath.

8-course Gala New Year’s Eve Dinner at Red Sky.

December 31st, 2017 7pm-2am. Baht 15,555++ per person (incl. 1 bottle Mumm No. 1 Pink champagne per couple).

Centara Grand and Bangkok Convention Centre 999/9 Rama I Rd.

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