Céline at Paris Fashion Week Spring Summer 2012

She's as minimal with her words as she is with her aesthetic, but Phoebe Philo did explain post show that this collection was all about "changing proportions" This trenchcoat with its nipped-in raised waist creates folds and pleats. Add in oversized sleeves and gently rounded couture-shaped shoulders and you have the new Céline shape Photograph: PR

Leather has already thrown off its winter-only shackles. Philo kicks the leather story on a season with this peplum geometric leather shell top with gentle peplum and clinical white skirt Photograph: PR

Here's an unfussy bottle green dress. How to accessorize it without bringing down its plain magnificence? Red nails and the new Céline shoe – platform sole with a giant ankle belt fastening Photograph: PR

Vogue Paris editor Emmanuelle Alt and journalist Alexandra Golovanof attend the Celine Ready to Wear Spring / Summer 2012 show Photograph: Eric Ryan/Getty Images

Fluid yet strict. This top with its neat collars is softened up with the just-glimpsed pleated detail at the back. Are you paying attention Cos? Bet you are Photograph: PR

Perfect sweatshirt klaxon! This semi-circle print will be a real seller amongst Philo-philes who aren't sold on the new proportion Photograph: PR

This shape means that peplums (or basques) as the designer is calling them are the new thing. And you can forget about colour (unless it's brick or bottle green) as next summer Céline is shy of the splashy prints and pastels that will dominate other collections Photograph: PR

Kanye West, a huge Céline fan, talks to Phoebe Philo at the show Photograph: Eric Ryan/Getty Images