For Songkran, shall we go vintage or vogue? Prim or bold? Old-school or sexy?
The fashion choice this coming Songkran is somehow reflective of Thailand's dilemma: old or new? Analogies aside, the current fad for traditional Thai costumes has found a perfect wardrobe occasion in the Songkran festival, which starts tomorrow -- and ladies in frills, laces and sabai will surely rub elbows with spaghetti-strapped water revellers and Aloha-clad street dancers. From Khao San to Silom and Pattaya, it's worth taking stock after this weekend of which style has come out on top.
Costume expert Surat Jongda told us earlier that traditional Thai outfits are diverse, depending on the era and the region. In the present context -- thanks to the popularity of the TV series Buppaesannivas -- the term "Thai costume" seems to be associated mostly with aristocratic clothing of the central region. And while the original way of wearing Thai dress involves complicated manoeuvrings of different pieces of clothes, contemporary wearers prefer the ready-to-wear versions that do away with all old-style wrapping techniques. And that's what were likely to see a lot of this coming weekend.

In the contemporary mind, Songkran in the old days was more civil and polite, and that goes for clothing and accessories. The "old" Songkran tradition didn't involve ruthless splashing, but the pouring of water for the elders to signify purification and gratitude -- water as much a metaphor as a party material. Besides the costume, the accessory list should include a silver bowl, a pack of facial chalk, and probably a jasmine garland. The whole lot can complete your nostalgic experience.
But that was probably an image from the previous century or so: pictures of modern Songkran revelry, say from the 1970s, clearly show that water fighting was pretty much real and the splashing was part of the game -- though nothing as wild as the pullulating atmosphere of Silom and Khao San of the 2010s. Our parents participated in Songkran in their contemporary clothes, less with fanciful water pistols and more with hoses. In the past 10 years, when the number of international tourists participating in Songkran has grown significantly, the business of dressing revellers and equipping them with the necessary items has also thrived: water pistols of various makes; water rucksacks; plastic wrappers for phones and wallets; and goggles, which have become increasingly indispensable.
For many years, the main concern of officialdom is the "decency" of the female wardrobe from April 13-15. Songkran, a cherished, proud tradition enjoyed by the whole country, is also known as a party where groping is common (see a related story on page 8). In one way, advocates of traditional costumes believe they offer better protection for women, and that the preferred contemporary outfits -- spaghetti straps, T-shirt, shorts -- are more susceptible to the uninvited hands of male octopuses. But again, if you're wearing traditional sabai, the exposed shoulder is even more pronounced, and lace blouses can jeopardise old-style decorum once water soaks it through.
The problem, hence, is not the women's clothes; it's the conscience of revellers. Old or new, vintage or voguish, bare midriff or bare shoulder, Songkran is an ancient tradition that has evolved into a contemporary setting, and a good mix of the treasured and the modern is the way to go for everyone.
Thai dress
This classical sabai dress is perfect for the water-pouring ceremony — though probably not a water fight on Silom. It costs 800 baht to rent.
Scented water
Nam Ob, or scented water, is a fragrant accompaniment that remains popular. The best-known brand is Nang Loy, and its shop near Wat Saket has stockpiled a large inventory for the yearly water festival. "We still sell a lot these days," a shop assistant said. Nam Ob Nang Loy costs 20 baht a bottle.
Din Sor Pong
The fashionable crowd may look down at the soft clay din sor pong, a cheap and charming facial cosmetic for the mass of revellers. But it's indispensable as a Songkran symbol. For guys, please do not daub it on a girl's face unless she consents. A pack of din sor pong costs 10 baht.
Silver bowl
Khan ngoen, another old-school item that remains classical and useful. Standard price at most markets is 100 baht or more. But if you're looking for a genuine silver bowl antique, it will set you back over 20,000 baht.

Shorts
[ DeFry01 ]
1,390 baht
Shirt
[ DeFry01 ]
1,590 baht
Raincoat
[ from ZeenZone, Central ]
1,490 baht
Waterproof plastic envelope
[ from ZeenZone, Central ]
140 baht
Shoes
[ Muji ]
290 baht
Water gun
150-350 baht