When Pontcanna's Milkwood announced post-lockdown that they would be rebranding as Cafe Milkwood and moving away from the high-end Welsh bistro food they've been serving since 2017, it would have been a surprise to many.
But with the staffing crisis in hospitality and the gruelling hours needed to run a restaurant, the conversion to a daytime cafe serving a more straightforward menu seems like a sensible decision.
And the Milkwood team of Cerys and Tom Furlong and Gwyn Myring had already proven during lockdown that there was healthy demand for their more accessible style of cooking by offering a takeaway menu of burgers, doughnuts and Cubano sandwiches.
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Whilst Milkwood previously discussed plans to reopen on Friday and Saturday evenings for small plates when the staffing crisis in hospitality eventually eases, for now they’re open seven days a week during the daytime.
Matsudai Ramen are also currently running an evening pop-up in the cafe until Saturday, October 16, but any future kitchen takeovers are yet to be announced.
Mrs G and I visited Cafe Milkwood for brunch on a sunny Sunday lunchtime. The bright dining room and outside tables were full of couples, families and friends enjoying their relaxed meals.
Cafe Milkwood's menu features a range of all day brunch dishes, sandwiches and salads. This includes waffles with buttermilk chicken; bacon, cockles and laverbread on toast; and smoked haddock with poached eggs and mustard sauce. It's the kind of crowd-pleasing selection which had me scratching my head with what to choose.
A good flat white (£2.50) was made with quality beans from Bristol's Clifton Coffee whilst Mrs G enjoyed a fresh and citrusy Mimosa (£8).
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A plate of huevos rancheros (£7) saw soft corn tortillas topped with runny eggs and soft black beans with a big depth of flavour and delicate hit of chilli. The addition of tangy cheese, smashed avocado, a good squeeze of lime, coriander and spring onion made for a delicious plate.
A whopper of a breakfast bun (£7) was stuffed with a juicy coarse sausage meat patty, trashy yet essential American cheese, a golden yolked fried egg and a good squeeze of pokey sriracha mayo.
The star component was a duo of crisp and tender homemade hash browns. I think I'd have dislocated my jaw if I hadn't removed them from the squidgy yet sturdy potato bun but they were so tasty they deserved to be eaten on their own.
I'm a big fan of brunch dessert or bressert (as I like to call it) and Milkwood's burnt basque cheesecake (£4) on offer was lush. Light and creamy with a toasty exterior, it was lovely all by itself. However, a blob of berry coulis did a good job at balancing its richness.
Milkwood's reinvention as Cafe Milkwood is a masterstroke. With the talent they have in the kitchen, it's no surprise that they've transformed into one of the best cafes in the city.
The Details:
Address - Milkwood, 83 Pontcanna Street, Pontcanna Cardiff CF11 9HS
Web - www.milkwoodcardiff.com
Telephone - 02920 232226
