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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Travel

Canoeing in the Dordogne

Bordered by glorious cliff-top chateaux, postcard-pretty villages and dense forests, the river that meanders through the Dordogne valley is one of the world's loveliest spots for canoeing, over sparkling waters lively with shoals of fish and past riverbanks populated by herons, egrets and kingfishers. Exploring this part of France by canoe is relatively inexpensive – expect to pay about €11 (£9.50) (€7 for kids) for a half-day.

Canoe/kayak hire firms are plentiful but you must book ahead for July and August. They'll take you upstream to set off, then transport your luggage and equipment to your pre-arranged meeting point. Watertight containers are provided for food, cameras and towels, as are lifejackets, making this a safe option for kids. Families may want to test the waters with a half-day trip; longer trips lasting from two to five days usually include accommodation at riverside campsites, either in your own tent or in chalets. Some sites are quite wild, others more commercialised. Pretty spots will tempt you to pull over for a riverside picnic and a paddle.

Stop off at Carennac, one of France's most beautiful medieval villages, whose principal points of interest are a well-preserved medieval priory and 11th-century church and cloister. Look above the church door for a remarkably intricate 12th-century tympanum.

Below water level, the region's most visited caves are a few kilometres away, at Padirac. The Padirac chasm is over 100 metres deep, and contains a subterranean river. Of the known 25 miles (40km) of caves, less than two miles are open to the public, who descend by lift and then explore on foot or by boat.

Back above ground, the meandering river route takes in many Dordogne chateaux, including one of southern France's mightiest medieval fortresses, Castelnau-Bretenoux. The chateau, perched on a rocky spur, dates from the 11th century, and its distinctive pink stone is visible from miles around. It owes its remarkable state of preservation to the 19th-century comic opera singer Jean Mouliérat, who restored and refurnished it after 200 years of neglect, before bequeathing it to the state on his death in 1932. Guided tours are available.

To find out more about this destination, visit gotofrancenow.com/midi-pyrenees-dordogne-valley

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